Protector Series Whole Home Water Conditioner
A high-flow ion-exchange water softening system designed to reduce calcium and magnesium hardness throughout your home, helping control scale, soap scum and hard-water buildup.
No Prepay Penalty
$0 Down
No Prepay Penalty
$0 Down
✓ Reduces calcium and magnesium hardness
✓ Helps reduce scale, soap scum and hard-water spotting
✓ Up to 27 gallons per minute capability
✓ Series I & II include lifetime parts warranty*
Whole-Home Soft Water
Treats incoming water before it reaches showers, fixtures and appliances.
Less Hard-Water Scale
Reduces the calcium and magnesium that form hardness-related scale.
Better Soap Performance
Soft water allows soaps and detergents to work without forming the same hard-water soap scum.
Local Installation & Service
Installed and supported by East Coast Water Quality in Virginia and North Carolina.
Lifetime
Parts Warranty
Peace of mind with the best warranty in the industry on our Series I & II
What Is the Protector Series Whole Home Water Conditioner?
The Protector Series is a salt-regenerated cation-exchange water softener. Unlike a salt-free scale conditioner, it actually removes hardness ions from the water. Calcium and magnesium attach to the softening resin and are exchanged for sodium ions as water passes through the media tank.
When the resin reaches its programmed capacity, the system automatically regenerates with brine from the salt tank. The brine recharges the resin so it can continue softening the home’s incoming water.
Current Protector configurations also use carbon media. East Coast Water Quality uses this carbon stage on city-water applications to reduce chlorine and chloramines while the resin addresses hardness.
This system reduces these problems hard water causes:
✓ Scale on Fixtures
✓ Water Heater Scale
✓ Soap Scum
✓ Spotting & Film
✓ Soap Scum
✓ Excessive Soap Need
✓ Scale in Plumbing
Compare Protector Series Models


Series I
- Touch Screen Metered Valve
- 10×54 Tank Size
- 18×33 Brine Tank
- 1 CU/FT Softening Resin
- ½ CU/FT Carbon (.25 Coconut/.25 Catalytic)
- 27 GPM @ 15 psi pressure drop
- Avg Salt Refill: 6-8 Months
- LIFETIME WARRANTY All Parts
- 1 Year Labor Warranty
- Financing Available
- 0 Down
- No Prepay Penalty


Series II
- Metered Valve
- 10×44 Tank Size
- 18×33 Brine Tank
- ¾ CU/FT Softening Resin
- ½ CU/FT Carbon (.25 Coconut/.25 Catalytic)
- 27 GPM @ 15 psi pressure drop
- Avg Salt Refill: 4-6 Months
- LIFETIME WARRANTY All Parts
- 1 Year Labor Warranty
- Financing Available
- 0 Down
- No Prepay Penalty


Series III
- Non Metered Valve
- 10×44 Tank Size
- 15×17 Brine Tank
- ¾ CU/FT Softening Resin
- ½ CU/FT Carbon (.25 Coconut/.25 Catalytic)
- 27 GPM @ 15 psi pressure drop
- Avg Salt Refill: 2-4 Months
- 10 Year Warranty All Parts
- 1 Year Labor Warranty
- Financing Available
- 0 Down
- No Prepay Penalty
Protector Series Conditioner Systems are Certified NSF/ANSI 44, NSF/ANSI/CAN 61, NSF/ANSI/CAN 372
Before You Buy Protector Conditioner Videos
Frequently Asked Questions
( click question to see video answer )
What Differentiates The Protector Series Whole Home Models?
Read Video Transcript / Summary
You’ve probably already checked out our AI video showing the differences between the Protector Series 1, Series 2, and Series 3. If you haven’t, be sure to check it out. But if you just want the quick summary, here’s the difference between these three systems.
The Series 1 features a touchscreen controller and is about 20 to 25% larger than the Series 2. Both of these are excellent systems, and both come with a lifetime warranty.
The Series 2 doesn’t have a touchscreen, but it is still a metered system. We can program it specifically for your water conditions, and it’s still very salt efficient. Because it’s a little smaller than the Series 1, it will regenerate a little more often over time.
The important thing to understand is that both the Series 1 and Series 2 produce the exact same quality water. The biggest difference is how often you’ll need to add salt to the brine tank each year. The larger capacity of the Series 1 allows it to regenerate less frequently, making it a little more salt efficient. The Series 1 also includes a more advanced controller.
We’ve also switched to 15 x 17 brine tanks. If you’re unsure how much salt to add, be sure to watch our video covering that topic as well.
The Series 3 is still a good system. It uses smarter technology than many competing non-electric systems that don’t have an electronic control head. However, unlike the Series 1 and Series 2, the Series 3 uses timer-based regeneration.
That means it’s programmed to regenerate every four to five days, depending on your water conditions, regardless of how much water you actually use.
By comparison, a Series 2 on typical city water in Virginia or North Carolina, with a family of four, will usually regenerate about every six to ten days, depending on water usage.
The Series 1 will often make it all the way to the 14-day automatic regeneration cycle that we preset on both the Series 1 and Series 2.
That 14-day regeneration is important because it refluffs the media bed, settles it back into place, and backwashes any accumulated debris. This helps prevent channeling through the media and ensures you’re using the entire filtration bed effectively.
Hopefully this answers your questions. There are other small differences between the systems, but for most homeowners, it really comes down to choosing between a larger system with a more advanced controller or a slightly smaller metered system. Both the Series 1 and Series 2 are backed by a lifetime warranty.
If you’d like more information about the warranty, be sure to check out our warranty page.
What You’ll Learn in This Video
- The main differences between the Protector Series 1, Series 2, and Series 3.
- How system size affects salt usage and regeneration frequency.
- Which systems use metered regeneration and which use timer-based regeneration.
- Why Series 1 and Series 2 produce the same water quality.
- How the 14-day regeneration cycle helps protect the filtration media.
- Which features set the Series 1 apart from the other models.
What Does The Protector Series Warranty Cover?
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What does the warranty actually cover? Are there hidden details in the fine print?
We’ve tried to make our warranties as simple as possible. Almost all of our equipment comes with a lifetime warranty on parts, including the computer, electronics, and other components, along with a one-year labor warranty.
To stay in business and continue honoring those warranties, if something goes wrong five or six years down the road, the replacement part is covered, but the labor to install it is not. Most repairs only take one to two hours, and our labor rate is typically $150 to $165 per hour. We’re a licensed master plumbing company, and we believe our rates are very competitive.
Many water treatment manufacturers have warranties that can be difficult to understand. Over the years, we’ve installed and serviced equipment from multiple manufacturers, and we’ve found that many warranties divide coverage into different time periods. Some parts may be covered for two years, others for three years, and electronic components for five years. It can become very confusing.
A long time ago, I decided to simplify things. Even though our manufacturers don’t provide us with lifetime warranties on many of these components, we pass along a lifetime parts warranty to our customers. We understand that any equipment with water running through it will eventually experience wear over time, just like other appliances in your home.
Our goal is to provide such a great experience that you’ll feel confident recommending us to your family and friends. If a major component fails six or seven years from now and we replace it even though it’s beyond the manufacturer’s warranty, we hope we’ve earned your trust and your referrals over the years.
So, in a nutshell, that’s our warranty. I’d like to make it more complicated, but it’s really not.
Pretty much everything is covered except for labor after the first year. If a replacement part has to be shipped, there may also be a small shipping charge.
Hope that answers your question. If you have any additional questions, give us a call or check out our other frequently asked questions videos. We’re available Monday through Friday, from 9:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. Thanks.
What You’ll Learn in This Video
- What is covered under the East Coast Water Quality warranty.
- How long the parts and labor warranties last.
- Why labor is not covered after the first year.
- How the warranty compares to many manufacturer warranties.
- Why East Coast Water Quality offers lifetime parts coverage.
- What costs customers may still be responsible for.
How Tall & Wide Are The Whole Home Water Treatment Systems?
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How much space do these whole-home water treatment systems take up? Great question. We get it all the time.
I’ve got some graphics to help explain it. If you’d like even better pictures, visit our website. You’re probably already there, and you can see the dimensions of each system. But if you want a quick overview, here’s what to expect.
Let’s start with the Protector Series 1. The total height of the system, including the control head, is about 62 inches.
The rectangular brine tank that sits beside it measures approximately 15 inches by 17 inches. We switched to these smaller rectangular brine tanks because they fit flat against the wall and take up less space than the older round tanks. If you’re wondering how much salt to add, we have another video that covers that topic.
Looking at the total space required along the wall, the Series 1 takes up about 28 inches of width.
You’ll also want to allow approximately 18 to 20 inches of clearance from the wall for the plumbing connections and the system itself.
The Protector Series 2 uses the same footprint as the Series 1. The only major difference is the height. The Series 2 stands about 54 inches tall.
The Protector Series 3 has approximately the same height and footprint as the Series 2.
Now let’s talk about the Iron & Sulfur Breaker. We offer two models, but the standard model is the one most homeowners choose. It uses a 52-inch tank, and the overall installed height is approximately 64 inches.
Unlike the Protector Series systems, the Iron & Sulfur Breaker does not use salt, so there is no brine tank. That gives us more flexibility during installation. In some situations, such as pump houses, we can even recess part of the tank below floor level if needed.
The Iron & Sulfur Breaker tank is approximately 10 inches in diameter, unless you’re installing an oversized model, which uses a 12-inch diameter tank.
For plumbing clearance, plan on approximately 8 to 10 inches extending out from the wall.
Hopefully this gives you a good idea of how much space these systems require. If you have any questions about your installation, give us a call.
What You’ll Learn in This Video
- How much space a whole-home water treatment system requires.
- The dimensions of the Protector Series 1 system.
- The dimensions of the Protector Series 2 and Series 3 systems.
- How much space to allow for plumbing connections.
- How the Iron & Sulfur Breaker differs from the softener systems.
- Why the newer rectangular brine tanks save space.
How Much Does A Whole Home Water Treatment System Weigh?
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This isn’t a question we get very often, but it does come up from time to time.
How much does the system weigh?
Some homeowners ask because they’re planning to install the system in an outdoor shelter with a floor, while others wonder if the system could move during a storm if it’s installed in something like a Rubbermaid storage shed.
If you’re using one of those sheds, it’s one of the least expensive ways to protect your equipment. If you’re concerned about a hurricane or strong storm, I can tell you the water treatment system itself isn’t going anywhere.
A typical Protector Series 1 or Series 2 system weighs approximately 160 to 175 pounds once it’s installed and filled with water. That includes the media, control head, tank, and water inside the system.
If it’s a water softener, you’ll also have the brine tank beside it. The total weight of the brine tank depends on how many bags of salt you keep in it. Our 15 x 17 rectangular brine tanks are designed to fit neatly against the wall, and they typically hold no more than three 40-pound bags of salt. The empty brine tank itself weighs less than 5 pounds.
For example, if you have two bags of salt in the brine tank, that’s about 80 pounds of salt. Combined with a water treatment system weighing around 170 pounds, the total installation would weigh roughly 250 pounds.
With that much weight, plus the fact that the system is plumbed into your home’s water lines, it’s not likely to move. If we’re installing the equipment in an outdoor shed, we can also fasten the shelter to your home if requested. In that case, we’ll likely have you sign an acknowledgment confirming that you want us to anchor the shed to the house.
If you’re interested in outdoor installations, we also have another video that discusses shelters and sheds in more detail.
Hopefully that answers your question.
What You’ll Learn in This Video
- How much a whole-home water treatment system weighs.
- How the weight changes when the system is filled with water.
- How much the brine tank weighs with salt.
- Whether a small outdoor shed can support the system.
- Why the system is unlikely to move during severe weather.
- How outdoor installations can be secured.
What Differentiates East Coast Water Quality From Competitors?
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If you’re watching this video, you’re probably wondering what sets East Coast Water Quality apart from the competition. Rather than comparing technical specifications or criticizing other companies, we’d like to explain what we believe truly matters when choosing a water treatment provider.
The first thing to consider is who will stand behind the system after it’s installed. There are countless water treatment products available online and in retail stores, but many of these companies don’t have a licensed plumbing business or local service team available when something goes wrong. While some of these systems may cost significantly less upfront, they often come with shorter warranties and aren’t designed for the same long-term reliability.
We actually install many customer-supplied systems purchased online. The challenge comes when a problem develops. While we can install the equipment, diagnosing failures, coordinating warranty claims, waiting for replacement parts, and returning to install those parts can quickly erase any initial savings. In many cases, homeowners spend more over time while still owning a product with limited support and warranty coverage.
We also believe it’s important to avoid companies that spend most of their sales presentation criticizing competitors. There are many quality water treatment products on the market, and several reputable companies offer effective solutions. Instead of focusing on what others are doing wrong, we prefer to explain how our products, pricing, and service model benefit our customers.
One important question to ask any company is whether their equipment is proprietary. Some manufacturers use exclusive parts that only their dealers can obtain. If service becomes slow or unsatisfactory, you may discover that no other company can repair your system because replacement parts aren’t available outside their network. We intentionally use industry-standard Clack control valves, along with our EcoWater partnership, so qualified water treatment professionals can service our systems if needed.
Our philosophy is based on building long-term relationships rather than making one-time sales. As licensed master plumbers, we don’t just install water treatment equipment—we also provide plumbing services, maintain existing systems, and strive to become a trusted resource for homeowners throughout the life of their home.
We also believe in transparent pricing. Rather than starting with inflated prices and negotiating them down over several hours, we offer straightforward pricing that’s consistent for every customer. While we provide discounts for groups such as military families, our pricing is fixed and designed to be fair for everyone.
Technology is another area where we believe customers should be careful. While non-electric water softeners still exist, modern electronically controlled systems offer better diagnostics, improved efficiency, easier programming, and more precise operation. That’s why we focus on proven, electronically controlled systems that provide greater reliability and performance.
Customer service is one of the areas we’re most proud of. We strive to respond to service requests within 24 hours whenever possible, and our multiple offices across Virginia and North Carolina allow us to provide local support to thousands of homeowners. If a customer ever has a concern, we encourage them to contact us directly so we can make it right.
Finally, our relationship with customers doesn’t end after installation. We return approximately 30 days after installation to perform a complimentary water retest, verify that the system is operating properly, and ensure our customers are completely satisfied. Many of the written and video testimonials on our website come directly from those follow-up visits.
Whether you’re on city water or well water, choosing the right system depends on your home’s specific needs. If you’d like more detailed information about our equipment, our Protector Series, or recommendations for your home, we’re always happy to answer your questions and help you find the right solution.
What You’ll Learn in This Video
- The key differences between East Coast Water Quality and other water treatment companies.
- Why local service, installation, and long-term support matter more than buying the cheapest system online.
- The risks of proprietary water treatment systems and why they can limit your service options.
- What to look for when comparing water treatment companies, warranties, pricing, and equipment.
- Why East Coast Water Quality uses industry-standard components that any qualified dealer can service.
- How our commitment to customer service, transparent pricing, and long-term relationships sets us apart.
Can A Water Treatment System Be Installed & Where?
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This is a question we get a lot from potential customers: “Can I install a whole-home water treatment system at my house?”
In most cases, the answer is yes. There are just a few factors we need to look at first. Any location is different, and we are always happy to walk you through the options. Whether you are on city water, municipal water, or private well water, the installation depends on where the main water line comes into the home, where the equipment can be placed, and how we can protect the system long term.
For homeowners in North Carolina and Virginia, we install whole-home water filtration systems, water softeners, and well water treatment systems in a variety of locations, including crawl spaces, garages, laundry rooms, utility rooms, pump houses, outdoor shelters, and sometimes exterior installations.
If your home has a crawl space, that is often one of the easiest situations. The main water line usually comes in underneath the house, and we can typically tap into the plumbing there. That allows us to treat the water before it goes throughout the home.
If you are on city water, one easy thing to remember is that you usually have a shut-off valve at the street. We also install a complimentary shut-off valve on our systems before the unit, so you do not have to reach down into a spider-filled meter box in the middle of summer just to shut the water off. Those meter box shut-offs can be difficult to access, and the water keys can be hard to turn. You can usually get those keys from places like Lowe’s, but we like to make the system easier to service by giving you a more convenient shut-off near the equipment.
If the system is going into a crawl space, we can usually shut the water off at the street, cut into the main water line underneath the home, and then ideally bring the system over into the garage if the plumbing layout allows it. Many homeowners prefer the garage because it protects the equipment from weather, sun, freezing temperatures, and general outdoor exposure.
When deciding where to install a water treatment system, common sense matters. Is there a doorway? Is there a practical way to run plumbing? Can we get into the garage without cutting across something that cannot be repaired properly? We want to keep the system protected, but we also need the installation to make sense for the layout of the home.
One question people ask is whether the system needs special power. In most cases, no special power is required. Most water treatment systems use a standard 110-volt outlet and very little electricity. It is similar to keeping something small plugged in, like an alarm clock. The important thing is simply having a proper outlet available if the equipment requires power.
If a garage is not available, the equipment may be installed indoors in some cases. Depending on the home, that could mean a laundry room, utility room, closet, or another interior space. There are a few things to consider with indoor installation. Some systems regenerate, depending on the type of water treatment equipment. When the system regenerates, it may make some noise and discharge water for a period of time.
What You’ll Learn in This Video
- Whether a whole-home water treatment system can be installed at your home.
- Where a whole-house water filtration system, water softener, or well water treatment system can be installed.
- The difference between installing a system on a crawl space home, slab home, city water home, or well water property.
- Why garage installations are often preferred when possible.
- When a system may need to be installed outdoors in a shelter.
- What electrical requirements may be needed for a water treatment system.
- How pump houses, well houses, fake rocks, and Rubbermaid-style sheds can be used to protect outdoor equipment.
- Why slab homes may require an exterior water line or exterior loop.
- Common installation considerations for homeowners in North Carolina and Virginia.
How To Treat Sulfur In Your Water In NC & VA?
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If your water smells like rotten eggs, you’re not alone. This is one of the most common water quality complaints we hear from homeowners throughout North Carolina and Virginia.
In many cases, the odor is caused by hydrogen sulfide gas, often referred to simply as sulfur. Sulfur problems can sometimes occur alongside iron contamination, which is why proper testing is important before selecting a treatment solution.
One of the first questions homeowners ask is, “How do I get the sulfur smell out of my water?”
Over the years, several methods have been used to treat sulfur odors. One common approach is a chemical feed pump system that injects chlorine into the water supply as it enters the home. While these systems can be effective when operating properly, they also introduce chemicals into the water and require ongoing maintenance.
At East Coast Water Quality, we stopped recommending most chemical feed pump systems several years ago. In our experience, these systems often require frequent service and maintenance. Chemical pumps can fail, tanks can run dry, and homeowners may find themselves continually monitoring and maintaining the equipment.
When a chemical feed system runs out of solution, the sulfur odor typically returns. Many service calls involve troubleshooting issues related to pumps, chemical tanks, or system operation. For that reason, we prefer solutions that require less maintenance and provide more consistent performance.
Our preferred method for treating sulfur odors is an oxidation-based filtration system, commonly referred to as an Iron Sulfur Breaker. These systems are designed to oxidize and filter sulfur, iron, or both, depending on the water chemistry and treatment goals.
One of the advantages of oxidation filtration is that it does not require the continuous addition of chemicals to the water supply. In many cases, a properly sized oxidation system can remove sulfur odors and iron contamination in a single tank, simplifying maintenance and improving reliability.
The exact treatment recommendation depends on the results of your water test. Some water supplies contain mostly sulfur, while others contain higher levels of iron, manganese, or a combination of contaminants. Proper testing helps determine the best filtration approach for your home.
Another benefit many homeowners appreciate is that oxidation filtration systems typically do not require salt. This makes them an attractive option for homeowners looking for a low-maintenance solution to sulfur odors and iron problems.
If your well water smells like rotten eggs, the first step is identifying the source of the odor and understanding what contaminants are present. From there, the right water treatment system can be selected to eliminate odors, improve water quality, and reduce ongoing maintenance concerns.
For many homeowners in North Carolina and Virginia, oxidation-based sulfur filtration provides an effective, long-term solution for treating sulfur odors and iron contamination without the challenges associated with chemical feed pumps.
What You’ll Learn in This Video
- What causes the rotten egg smell in well water.
- The difference between sulfur, hydrogen sulfide, and iron-related water problems.
- Why chemical feed pumps are not East Coast Water Quality’s preferred sulfur treatment method.
- Common maintenance issues associated with chlorine injection systems.
- How oxidation-based sulfur filtration systems work.
- Why sulfur and iron can often be treated with a single filtration system.
- How to remove sulfur odors from well water without using salt.
Do I Need A Reverse Osmosis Unit If I Have The Whole Home System?
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One of the questions we get all the time is, “Do I still need a reverse osmosis system if I already have a whole-home water treatment system?” The short answer is yes, because the two systems serve very different purposes.
A whole-home system is designed to treat what we call your working water—the water you use for showers, laundry, washing dishes, and protecting your plumbing and appliances. Without getting overly technical, a water softener works through an ion exchange process. It removes hardness minerals like calcium and magnesium and replaces them with an equal amount of sodium ions. That’s great for reducing hard water problems throughout your home, but it doesn’t produce the highest quality drinking water.
That’s where reverse osmosis comes in. While the whole-home system improves water for everyday household use, the reverse osmosis system is designed specifically for drinking and cooking water. It removes many contaminants that a water softener cannot, including PFAS (“forever chemicals”), lead, arsenic, fluoride, nitrates, sodium, pharmaceuticals, microplastics, total dissolved solids (TDS), volatile organic compounds (VOCs), and many other chemical contaminants. The goal is to provide one final stage of purification right before the water reaches your glass.
If your budget doesn’t allow you to install both systems at the same time, we understand. If we had to recommend installing them in stages, we’d generally suggest starting with the reverse osmosis system because drinking water quality has the greatest direct impact on what you consume every day. That said, among our more than 8,000 customers, approximately 95% choose to install both systems because they complement each other.
Another common question is whether you still need the filter inside your refrigerator if your home already has a whole-home treatment system and reverse osmosis. In most cases, the answer is no. Refrigerator filters are typically just small carbon filters and don’t remove the broad range of contaminants that a reverse osmosis system does. In fact, the catalytic carbon used in our whole-home systems is generally much more effective than the carbon found in standard refrigerator filters.
Some refrigerators require a filter bypass plug to keep the water dispenser working after the factory filter is removed. Many refrigerators include one when they’re new, and if yours doesn’t, the manufacturer will often provide one at little or no cost. It may take a couple of attempts to receive the correct bypass plug for your specific model.
Finally, many homeowners ask whether reverse osmosis water can be supplied directly to the refrigerator and ice maker. If your home is pre-plumbed—such as many of the homes built by our builder partners—or if you have a crawl space that allows us to run a water line beneath the floor, connecting the refrigerator is usually straightforward. However, homes built on a concrete slab without a concealed route between the kitchen sink and refrigerator may not allow for a hidden water line. In those situations, you’ll still have excellent purified drinking water at the sink and can easily fill a pitcher for the refrigerator if needed.
If you have additional questions about maintenance, filter replacement schedules, or any of our water treatment systems, be sure to visit the Frequently Asked Questions section of our website or give us a call. We’re always happy to help.
What You’ll Learn in This Video
- The difference between a whole-home water treatment system and a reverse osmosis drinking water system.
- Why a whole-home system softens water but does not remove many drinking water contaminants.
- Which contaminants reverse osmosis helps reduce, including PFAS, lead, fluoride, arsenic, nitrates, pharmaceuticals, microplastics, VOCs, and total dissolved solids (TDS).
- Which system you should install first if you’re purchasing them one at a time.
- Why refrigerator water filters are not a substitute for reverse osmosis and when a filter bypass plug may be needed.
- How your home’s plumbing layout determines whether purified reverse osmosis water can be supplied directly to your refrigerator and ice maker.
Does Whole Home Water Treatment System Help My Hair, Skin & Eczema?
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We get this question quite a bit through our website, over the phone, and from homeowners researching water treatment online.
The question is usually something along the lines of, “Will a water treatment system really help my skin?” Sometimes it’s a parent asking about a child with eczema. Sometimes it’s someone dealing with dry skin, dry scalp, irritation, or other skin concerns. We hear a lot of different versions of the same question.
The first thing I always tell people is this: don’t just listen to a salesperson who’s trying to sell you something. Listen to people who have actually used the product.
In our case, I encourage people to visit East Coast Water Quality and spend some time reading the reviews and testimonials from real customers. You’re probably already on our website if you’re watching this video. Take a few minutes to listen to the experiences of homeowners who have actually installed and used these systems.
Many of those customers have been using their systems for 15 days, 30 days, or a few months. Others have had them for years. You can hear directly from families about the changes they’ve noticed after improving the quality of the water throughout their homes.
Now, I’m not going to promise you anything, and I’m not going to tell you that installing a water treatment system will automatically solve a skin condition. What I can do is give you some information and some things to think about so you can make an informed decision for yourself.
When we talk about municipal water, it’s important to remember that our cities and municipalities do an incredible job delivering water to our homes. Most of us don’t spend much time thinking about how difficult that process actually is.
If you go look at a reservoir or a water source and then think about the water that eventually comes out of your faucet, it’s pretty amazing. But in order to make that happen safely, municipalities have to disinfect the water and keep it protected all the way to your home.
That means disinfectants like chlorine are commonly present in municipal water supplies. In many areas, chloramines are also used. Chloramines are created by combining chlorine and ammonia and are used as a long-lasting disinfectant within the distribution system.
I would encourage you to do some research on chlorine, chloramines, and their potential effects on skin and hair.
One of the things we notice in the water treatment industry is the impact these disinfectants can have on materials over time. Every few years, we’ll disconnect a water treatment system and inspect the components. In some cases, we’ll see rubber O-rings and gaskets on untreated water systems that have become brittle, deteriorated, or partially disintegrated over time.
Then we’ll compare those components to similar parts located after the water treatment equipment, and those parts often look dramatically different.
When you see the effect water chemistry can have on materials like rubber gaskets and seals, it’s natural for homeowners to wonder what the long-term impact may be on their skin, especially for young children or individuals who already have skin sensitivities.
Another demonstration we often perform involves clothing and laundry.
We’ll take a jar and soak clothing or fabric in water. Then we’ll compare how detergents, minerals, and other residues behave under different water conditions. Many people are surprised to learn how much detergent and residue can remain trapped in fabrics after washing.
Water is often referred to as the universal solvent. It dissolves, carries, and removes substances from whatever it comes into contact with. But once water becomes loaded with minerals, hardness, soap residue, and other contaminants, its ability to clean effectively can be reduced.
That’s why people sometimes notice soap scum in bathtubs, spots on dishes, residue on fixtures, or clothing that doesn’t seem completely clean even after it comes out of the wash.
Hard water can contribute to many of these issues.
When hard water is present, soaps and detergents often don’t rinse as effectively. As a result, some of those residues can remain on dishes, clothing, shower surfaces, and even your skin.
Many of us use soaps, shampoos, conditioners, body washes, and other personal care products every day. We put those products on our skin and hair expecting them to rinse away cleanly. But if the water isn’t rinsing effectively because of hardness minerals or other water quality issues, it’s reasonable to ask whether some of those residues may remain behind.
Those are some of the factors that homeowners should consider when evaluating the relationship between water quality and skin comfort.
Again, I’m not going to sit here and tell you that a water treatment system will cure a skin condition. What I am going to tell you is that many people who install whole-home water treatment systems report positive experiences related to their skin, hair, and overall comfort.
That’s why I always encourage homeowners to go beyond marketing claims and listen to real customer experiences. Read reviews. Watch testimonials. Talk to people who have actually lived with these systems and hear what they have to say.
If you remove hardness minerals, reduce chlorine exposure, improve rinsing performance, and improve the overall quality of the water throughout your home, it’s fair to ask whether those changes could make a difference for your skin and hair.
Ultimately, that’s a decision each homeowner has to make for themselves.
We’re not here to make medical claims. We’re simply providing information, encouraging you to ask the right questions, and helping you evaluate whether improved water quality may be beneficial for your family.
Many homeowners choose whole-home water treatment systems specifically because of concerns related to skin, dry scalp, irritation, and hair quality. In fact, hair health is another topic we discuss frequently and cover in a separate video.
Hopefully this information gives you a better understanding of the connection between water quality, chlorine, hard water, and skin concerns. Be sure to check out our other videos and customer testimonials to learn more about how water treatment systems are helping families throughout North Carolina and Virginia.
What You’ll Learn in This Video
- Whether a water treatment system can help with dry skin, eczema, and other skin concerns.
- How chlorine and chloramines in municipal water may affect your skin and hair.
- Why many homeowners notice improvements after installing a whole-home water filtration system.
- The role hard water can play in skin irritation and dryness.
- How water quality affects soaps, detergents, and personal care products.
- Why customer reviews and real-world experiences matter when researching water treatment systems.
- Questions to ask when deciding whether a whole-home water treatment system is right for your family.
Shelter Options For My Whole Home Water Treatment System?
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A question we get all the time is: “What about sheltering my system if I have to put it outside?”
We are not shelter salesmen, and we are not shed salesmen. The option we normally recommend is the cheapest practical way to shelter an outdoor water treatment system, which is a Rubbermaid-style storage shed like you can find at Lowe’s, Home Depot, or other hardware stores.
These sheds are typically around $289 to $300. If you want to pick one up beforehand, that is perfectly fine. If you need us to pick one up for you, we can usually do that for a flat charge. We do not make money on the shed itself. The charge is simply for the time, travel, and pickup.
For customers purchasing a water treatment system from us, if you ask us to handle it, we can pick up the shed and put it together. Assembly usually takes around 30 to 45 minutes. We just ask that you reimburse us for the cost of the shed.
One thing to keep in mind is that these shelters can shift or settle over time. They sit on the ground, and natural elements like rain and sun can affect them. We may put gravel underneath to help level the area, but over time, the shed can still settle or become uneven.
Sometimes homeowners call us later and say the shed is warped or has shifted. Just be aware that this is the most affordable shelter option, not a permanent custom structure.
Another important thing to remember is that many outdoor water filtration systems or water softeners need power. We are not electricians, but if the system requires power, you will need an outlet nearby. In some homes, there may already be an outlet in an adjacent room, garage, or nearby area where an electrician can tap in and provide power.
These systems do not use a lot of electricity. In many cases, it is similar to keeping an alarm clock plugged in. However, you still need a proper outlet for the system.
Depending on the setup, the salt brine tank may also fit inside the shed. Smaller rectangular brine tanks often work well because they fit nicely against the wall and allow the whole system to be contained inside.
If freezing temperatures are a concern, you will also want to insulate the shed and use a small heater. A simple heater plugged into the outlet can help keep the system warm during cold weather and help protect the water treatment equipment from freezing.
A typical outlet installation can range from around $275 to $400 depending on the situation. Again, we are not electricians, but we can usually refer you to one depending on your area, or you can use someone you already know.
You can always build a custom shelter, pour a concrete pad, or make the setup as nice as you want. But if you are looking for the most affordable shelter recommendation for an outdoor water softener or water filtration system, the Rubbermaid-style storage shed is usually the simplest option.
What You’ll Learn in This Video
- How to protect an outdoor water treatment system from the weather.
- Affordable shelter options for a water softener or water filtration system.
- Why East Coast Water Quality recommends Rubbermaid-style storage sheds for many outdoor installations.
- Why outdoor water treatment equipment may need electricity.
- How to help prevent freezing damage to a water softener or filtration system.
- When insulation, a small heater, or a custom shelter may be needed.
Does a Water Softener take out Forever Chemicals / PFAS?
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All right, guys. We got a good one here.
This is a frequently asked question, especially in North Carolina. Not that Virginia or anywhere else can hide from forever chemicals. Virginia definitely has hard water, but it’s generally not as hard as some areas of North Carolina, especially along the coast. We also see pretty hard water around our Raleigh branch.
Let’s stay on topic. You’re probably looking at the Protector Series systems and wondering, do they remove forever chemicals? Or, for that matter, does a water softener remove forever chemicals?
Before I answer that, if you haven’t already, check out Dr. Frank on our YouTube channel or on our website. He’s an environmental specialist and an expert on PFAS. The series is called PFAS in Drinking Water: Plain English. It’s nice to have someone who can explain these topics in a way that’s easy to understand.
Now, back to the question. No. A water softener does not remove PFAS in any way, shape, or form.
Now, you have what’s called a refiner, and that’s usually what we’re installing on city water and, in some cases, well water. The Protector Series systems you’re looking at use catalytic carbon and activated carbon. We use high-grade carbon primarily because we need to remove chloramines from the water, which is a combination of chlorine and ammonia. Some municipalities don’t use chloramines, but we don’t want to take the chance that they’ll change their treatment methods in the future.
Many systems don’t remove the ammonia. In fact, your refrigerator filter generally doesn’t remove ammonia either. A lot of people take comfort in their refrigerator filter without realizing it’s not removing that contaminant.
The carbon in these systems removes chlorine, and these carbons can make claims regarding PFAS reduction. Our Protector Series I and Series II systems can reduce up to 70% of certain PFAS compounds. I don’t allow my sales team to advertise it that way, though. If they’re asked, they can explain it, but what does “up to 70%” really mean? That’s the maximum under certain conditions. There are more than 10,000 PFAS compounds, and only a handful are currently regulated.
If your goal is to remove as much PFAS as possible, take a look at our Protector PFAS & Lead Series. If you go to our website and select Solution Systems, you’ll find it there. That’s the system designed specifically for PFAS reduction. I can’t say it removes everything because nothing is 100%, but it is certified, and that’s one of the most important things to look for when comparing PFAS filters.
Whether you need that system depends on your family’s preferences and your home’s needs. At the end of the day, we can’t eliminate every source of PFAS because they’re everywhere, and research shows that most of us already have some PFAS in our bodies. However, if your goal is to remove PFAS from your home’s water, that’s the system designed for that purpose.
If you’re installing both systems at the same time, the PFAS filter is installed after the water softener. If you’re adding a PFAS filter to an existing water softener, it should also be installed after the softener because the softener has already been exposed to PFAS.
I also recommend finishing the system with a reverse osmosis unit at the kitchen sink. Reverse osmosis removes PFAS along with many other contaminants. While the whole-home PFAS filter provides PFAS-reduced water throughout the house, reverse osmosis removes additional contaminants that the PFAS filter is not designed to address.
You don’t have to install a water softener or refiner, but for many homeowners, the best value is a Protector Series I or Series II system paired with a reverse osmosis unit. That’s the approach most of our customers choose. It provides additional peace of mind, especially since you’re not drinking water from your shower, and your reverse osmosis system is treating the water you actually consume.
Check out the rest of this series for more information. Hopefully this answers your question. We try to keep these videos reasonably short and stay on topic. Thanks for watching.
What You’ll Learn in This Video
- Whether a water softener removes PFAS (“forever chemicals”).
- How the Protector Series differs from the Protector PFAS & Lead Series.
- Why catalytic carbon can reduce some PFAS but isn’t designed to remove all of them.
- Why certified PFAS filtration is important.
- Why reverse osmosis is still recommended for drinking water.
- How whole-home PFAS filtration and reverse osmosis work together.
Is Well Or City Water Safer In Virginia & North Carolina?
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All right, guys. This one comes up all the time. Most people think it’s a simple yes-or-no question, but it absolutely is not.
Is city water safer than well water, or is well water safer than city water?
The answer is that you’re probably going to answer this question better than I can.
With city water, there are advantages. You typically don’t have high iron or sulfur because the chlorine and other disinfectants oxidize those contaminants out of the water. However, those disinfectants are still in the water when it reaches your home. They’ve done their job, and I would encourage you to do your own unbiased research on chlorine, including evaporation, inhalation during showers, and other related topics.
Then you get into issues like dry skin and eczema. Talk to some of those customers, and they’ll tell you they don’t care what dissolved in their well water—they don’t want to deal with the way they feel from the disinfectants in city water.
On the well water side, the disadvantage is that almost anything can dissolve into it at any time. You can have arsenic, lead, bacteria, and the list goes on. Since there’s no disinfectant in private well water, if bacteria are present, you may not know it.
There’s risk with both. The honest answer is that there’s no way to have perfect water unless you treat it at the point of use. It’s not a sales gimmick. Water is the universal solvent. It wants to dissolve and carry whatever it comes into contact with.
I can’t give you a direct answer. Whether the water comes from a private well or a municipal system, we can treat both. If you’re on well water and you’re looking for the highest level of protection, and you’re not dealing with tannins, oxidized iron, or a few other difficult situations, the typical setup would be a water softener, followed by a UV light to disinfect bacteria, and then a reverse osmosis system to remove contaminants right before you drink the water. If your home has a crawl space, you can also run that reverse osmosis water to your refrigerator.
Hopefully this gives you a little bit of an answer. I’m really encouraging you to continue your research. There really isn’t a completely safe option when you consider everything that can be present in water and the potential health effects.
Another thing I didn’t touch on at the beginning is, who determines what is considered safe? If you look at EPA regulations and municipal water standards, many of those regulations for certain contaminants haven’t changed in 20, 30, or even 40 years. They establish a level that’s considered safe and another level that’s considered unsafe, but it’s worth asking how often that research is updated.
If you visit our website and go to the Water Quality Reports section, you can easily find your city’s annual water quality report without having to search through the municipality’s website. Keep in mind that these reports are often about a year and a half old. During the recording of this video in 2026, many of the available reports are from 2024 because that’s how long it takes for them to be published.
We don’t criticize cities or municipalities. They do an excellent job with the resources they have, aging infrastructure, and the challenges they face. However, no public water system is currently removing all PFAS from drinking water.
The more research you do, the more you’ll likely come to the conclusion that the only way to have confidence in your drinking water is to treat it at the point of use.
If you haven’t already, check out Dr. Frank’s PFAS in Drinking Water: Plain English series. He explains these topics in a way that’s easy to understand. There are thousands of PFAS compounds, but only a handful are currently regulated, and those regulations continue to evolve.
Check out some of our other videos if you’re interested in learning about different types of filtration or how to target a specific water quality concern. If nothing else, keep educating yourself using the resources we provide. Thank you.
What You’ll Learn in This Video
- How to protect an outdoor water treatment system from the weather.
- Affordable shelter options for a water softener or water filtration system.
- Why East Coast Water Quality recommends Rubbermaid-style storage sheds for many outdoor installations.
- Why outdoor water treatment equipment may need electricity.
- How to help prevent freezing damage to a water softener or filtration system.
- When insulation, a small heater, or a custom shelter may be needed.
Does The Whole Home Water Treatment System Remove Chlorine?
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Does our whole-home water treatment systems and water softeners remove the chlorine from your tap water?
The answer is yes.
If you’re looking at our Protector Series line, we call them refiners because they can be used for multiple different applications. For all of our city water applications, whether it’s North Carolina or Virginia, we use a very high-grade catalytic carbon. Some areas of North Carolina do not use ammonia in the water. However, almost all of our Virginia service areas use chloramines, which are a combination of chlorine and ammonia.
You can always click on the Protector Series video on our website for a more detailed explanation, but if you’re just looking for the answer to this question, we use catalytic carbon along with activated carbon to remove the chlorine and ammonia so you have chemical-free water. These systems also reduce other contaminants in the water.
If you have additional questions about contaminants such as fluoride or lead, keep checking out our Frequently Asked Questions, and be sure to watch our reverse osmosis drinking system videos for more information.
Yes, our systems remove those disinfectant chemicals, and that’s very important. You needed those disinfectants to get the water safely to your home because they killed bacteria and performed the job they were designed to do. However, once the water reaches your home, you don’t need those disinfectants anymore.
I’ll give you one example from the service side. If you look at the inlet O-ring on a water treatment system that’s been installed for two or three years, you’ll often see that the untreated water has caused the rubber gasket to deteriorate. It can become brittle and almost begin to disintegrate.
Now compare that to the outlet O-ring after the water has been treated. Even after five to seven years, it often looks almost brand new simply because those disinfectant chemicals have been removed from the water.
The same water is flowing through all of the plumbing components in your home. That’s one reason we often encourage customers with skin concerns to listen to the experiences shared by our existing customers. When you see what those chemicals can do to a rubber O-ring, it gives you an idea of why so many homeowners choose to remove them from their water.
So yes, the Protector Series I, II, and III systems remove the chlorine and chloramines from your city water.
What You’ll Learn in This Video
- Whether the Protector Series removes chlorine and chloramines from city water.
- How catalytic carbon helps remove chlorine and ammonia from your water.
- Why disinfectants are necessary before water reaches your home.
- Why disinfectants are no longer needed once the water reaches your plumbing.
- How removing chlorine can help protect your home’s plumbing components.
- Why reverse osmosis is still recommended for contaminants such as fluoride and lead.
Will The Whole Home System Water Be Streak Free?
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This could apply to a newly purchased system, or you could be shopping for a water softener for your RV or boat and wondering if it’s going to give you a 100% streak-free rinse. Will you be able to rinse it off and simply walk away?
The honest answer is no.
Unless you’re using deionized water, you need a much higher level of water purification to eliminate spotting completely. Even reverse osmosis (RO) water can leave a small amount of spotting, although it performs much better. That’s a different topic—how to use reverse osmosis water in an application where you can achieve a spot-free rinse on an antique car or a boat.
With a water softener, you’re simply exchanging calcium and magnesium ions for sodium ions. While that removes the hardness minerals, the sodium can still leave lighter spots behind.
Is it going to be better? Absolutely.
Will it reduce swirl marks and help prevent other issues while washing? Yes. Will your detergents work better? Absolutely. Will the water clean more effectively and help remove more dirt while you’re washing your vehicle? Yes.
However, if you’re expecting to rinse your vehicle and simply walk away without drying it, the answer is no. A water softener by itself will not provide a completely spot-free rinse.
What You’ll Learn in This Video
- Whether a water softener provides a completely spot-free rinse.
- Why softened water still leaves some mineral spotting.
- How deionized water differs from softened water.
- Why reverse osmosis performs better than softened water for spot reduction.
- The benefits a water softener does provide when washing vehicles and boats.
- Why softened water still makes cleaning easier, even if it isn’t completely spot-free.
Why Is My Water Slimy After Ran Through Water Conditioner?
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All right. I can’t say this is a frequently asked question, but we do get it several times a year. We’ll have someone move into our service area who’s looking for cleaner water, but they’ve had an experience at someone else’s house—maybe growing up, especially in areas farther west, Florida, or Texas—where the water was extremely hard.
Really, none of us want hardness in our water, but when you get to certain levels of hardness, you may experience what people describe as a slippery or slimy feeling after installing a water softener.
To explain the chemistry briefly, when water passes through a water softener, all you’re doing is exchanging sodium ions for calcium and magnesium ions. Sodium is much easier to work with for your hair, your skin, your dishes, your clothes, and your appliances.
One of the biggest benefits of soft water is that you use much less detergent. Many cleaning products are made up primarily of water softeners and chemicals that help overcome hard water. Water is the best cleaner in the world. It’s the universal solvent. It pulls, cuts, and cleans. With hard water, you get mineral deposits on your dishes, soap scum in your tub, and calcium and magnesium left behind after the water evaporates.
When you have harder water, the water softener exchanges more sodium ions because it’s replacing more calcium and magnesium. If you had 100 total dissolved solids of calcium and magnesium coming through the tap, the water softener would exchange that for the exact same amount of sodium ions. In areas with extremely hard water, that larger ion exchange can create what many people describe as a slippery feeling. I don’t really like the word slimy. I’d say it’s more of a silky feel.
Another thing to keep in mind is that when people get soft water, they often continue using the same amount of shampoo, body wash, and detergent they used before. In many cases, you can use 80% to 90% less. With soft water, products lather much more easily, so if you’re using too much soap, it can make it feel like it isn’t rinsing off completely.
Personally, I’d take that silky feeling over hard water any day of the week because of all the benefits that come with soft water for your hair, skin, plumbing, and appliances.
We’re also not telling you to drink softened water. You’re going to want to run that water through a reverse osmosis system for your drinking water. You can also check out our Frequently Asked Questions about reverse osmosis drinking systems.
If you really want a little hardness back in your water, there are ways to do it, although I generally don’t recommend it. We can install what’s called a distributor on the back of the control valve. After the water has been treated, it can reintroduce a small amount of the untreated water to add some hardness back in. There are also other methods, such as adding a neutralizer or other equipment to increase hardness after the system.
One thing I do want to clear up is a common misconception. Sometimes people think you can simply adjust the settings on the water softener and tell it how much hardness to leave in the water. You can’t. The water still passes through the resin bed, and the system still exchanges the exact amount of sodium ions for the calcium and magnesium ions that are removed.
Hopefully this video gives you a little more clarity on the topic. Again, I’d always take softer water over the slimy feeling. Thank you.
What You’ll Learn in This Video
- Why softened water can sometimes feel “slippery” or “silky.”
- How a water softener changes the chemistry of your water.
- Why you use less soap and detergent with soft water.
- Why extremely hard water can make the slippery feeling more noticeable.
- Whether you can adjust the hardness level on a water softener.
- How hardness can be reintroduced if you prefer it.
If I Move Out Can I Take My Systems With Me?
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At East Coast Water Quality, we proudly serve homeowners throughout Virginia and North Carolina. One question we hear frequently—especially from military families—is what happens if you need to move shortly after purchasing one of our water treatment systems.
The good news is that your water treatment equipment can move with you. Just like any valuable investment in your home, your system can be removed and reinstalled at your next residence, allowing you to continue enjoying the same high-quality water wherever life takes you.
To help make that transition easier, we offer every customer one complimentary system removal. For most homeowners, this service is available if you move within one year of purchase. As a thank-you to our military service members, we extend that benefit to two years from the date of purchase.
During the complimentary removal, our technicians will uninstall both the whole-home system and the reverse osmosis system at no charge while restoring your home’s plumbing to its original configuration. In many cases, the opening left by the reverse osmosis faucet can be fitted with a soap dispenser for a clean, finished appearance.
Once your equipment has been removed, simply transport it with your household belongings. If you’re moving outside of our normal service area, we’ll be happy to help you locate a qualified installer in your new location to reinstall your equipment.
This relocation program is available for customers who own one of our Protector Series or EcoWater Systems products. While the initial removal service is complimentary during the eligible time period, reinstallation at your new home and installation of a soap dispenser are paid services.
Whether you’re relocating across town or across the country, our goal is to help you continue enjoying the benefits of clean, treated water in your new home.
What You’ll Learn in This Video
- What happens to your water treatment system if you move to a new home.
- How East Coast Water Quality’s free relocation program works.
- Special relocation benefits available for military families.
- Which services are included at no charge and which are paid services.
- What to do if you’re moving outside our service area.
- Which water treatment systems qualify for the relocation program.
How the Protector RO Works - 4 Advanced Stages
Whole-Home Water Inlet

Water enters through the main household supply so treatment occurs before the water reaches most indoor fixtures and appliances.
Ion
Exchange

Softening resin captures calcium and magnesium hardness ions and exchanges them for sodium ions.
Carbon Conditioning

Protector configurations include coconut and catalytic carbon media for added city-water conditioning, including chlorine/chloramine reduction.
Tank
Regeneration

Brine recharges the resin and the control valve manages the regeneration and backwash cycle according to the model and programmed settings.
Protector Series Features
HighFlo 1” Valve Technology
- Efficient Softening Process: Experience the pinnacle of water softening with our state-of-the-art HighFlo valve, designed for maximum efficiency and reliability.
- Automatic Regeneration: The system’s meter-driven valve ensures optimal performance by automatically regenerating the resin beads with brine solution, keeping the softening process continuous and hassle-free.
Advanced Resin Media Tank
- Powerful Ion Exchange: Our media tank is filled with high-quality resin beads that effectively exchange calcium and magnesium ions for sodium, transforming hard water into soft water.
- Extended System Life: The durable design and quality materials of our resin media tank guarantee longevity and consistent performance.
Maintenance Protector Series Conditioner Videos
Frequently Asked Questions
( click question to see video answer )
What Kind Of Salt Do I Add To My Brine Tank & Where Can I Purchase It?
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One of the most common questions we receive is what type of water softener salt to use and where to buy it. The good news is that it’s easy to find. Most hardware stores, including Lowe’s, Home Depot, Ace Hardware, and many local retailers, carry water softener salt. You can also search online for “water softener salt near me” to find nearby suppliers. Depending on the brand and type, you can typically expect to pay between $8 and $11 per bag.
If you have a private well with iron in your water, we recommend using iron-removing salt, which is often sold in bags with a green label. This type of salt helps prevent iron from building up on the softener’s resin beads, where it can form a sticky, tar-like coating that reduces the system’s efficiency. Using iron-removing salt helps keep the resin cleaner and your water softener performing at its best.
Another question we hear all the time is whether you should use pellet salt or rock salt. There are strong opinions on both sides, but we don’t get involved in the “salt wars.” Both types will effectively regenerate your water softener.
Pellet salt is generally considered cleaner and tends to leave less residue in the brine tank. Manufacturers also claim it lasts longer, although it typically costs a little more. Rock salt, on the other hand, is usually less expensive but may leave some residue in the bottom of the brine tank over time. If that buildup becomes noticeable, simply cleaning out the tank once a year is usually sufficient. In most cases, the residue is flushed out during the normal regeneration cycle and doesn’t affect the water you use.
You’ll also hear claims from both sides. Some pellet salt manufacturers say rock salt is dirtier, while supporters of rock salt argue that pellet salt can create its own issues, such as bridging or leaving residue. There are plenty of opinions, but in our experience, both products work well when used properly.
At East Coast Water Quality, we don’t insist on one type over the other. Choose the water softener salt that best fits your budget and preferences, and your system will perform just fine with either option.
What You’ll Learn in This Video
- Where to buy water softener salt and what you can expect to pay.
- When to use iron-removing salt for homes with well water.
- The differences between pellet salt and rock salt.
- The advantages and disadvantages of each type of water softener salt.
- Whether one type of salt is actually better for your water softener.
- Which type of salt we recommend and why the choice ultimately comes down to personal preference.
How Do I Keep My Whole Home Conditioner From Freezing?
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Let’s talk about freeze prevention for your water treatment system. The first question to ask is whether you even need to worry about freezing. If your system is installed inside your home, garage, laundry room, or another heated indoor space, freeze protection usually isn’t necessary.
However, if your system is installed outdoors—such as at the property entrance, inside a utility shed, or in a well pump house—you’ll need to take precautions during extended periods of freezing weather. If temperatures are expected to remain below freezing for 24 to 48 hours or longer, we recommend placing a small electric heater or even a simple light bulb inside the enclosure. It doesn’t take much heat to keep the space warm enough to prevent the system from freezing.
If your system does begin to freeze, it’s important to catch it as early as possible. One of the first places ice typically forms is around the bypass valve and the small tubing located behind the control valve. You can carefully thaw this area using a hair dryer, moving it back and forth to avoid overheating or damaging any plastic components. Avoid using excessive heat, as it can melt or deform parts of the system.
Whether your system is indoors or outdoors, it’s also a good idea to let your household faucets drip during prolonged freezing temperatures. Keeping water moving through the plumbing helps reduce the risk of frozen pipes and frozen equipment.
A frozen bypass valve or plumbing connection can crack without being immediately noticeable. When temperatures rise and everything thaws, those cracks often turn into significant water leaks that require repairs. Unfortunately, freeze damage is considered weather-related and is not covered under warranty, much like damage caused by hurricanes or other natural events.
Taking a few simple precautions before freezing weather arrives can save you from expensive repairs and help keep your water treatment system operating reliably throughout the winter.
What You’ll Learn in This Video
- Which water treatment systems are at risk of freezing and which don’t require freeze protection.
- Simple ways to prevent an outdoor water treatment system from freezing during cold weather.
- Where water softeners typically freeze first and how to safely thaw them.
- Why letting your pipes drip during freezing temperatures can help prevent damage.
- What can happen if your system freezes, including costly repairs that aren’t covered by warranty.
- Tips to help protect your water treatment system throughout the winter.
Pressure Loss Through My Whole Some Water Filtration System?
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If you’ve noticed a drop in water pressure throughout your home, your water treatment system may be one of the first places to investigate. This is a question we receive regularly from homeowners throughout North Carolina and Virginia.
The first step is to check the bypass valves on your whole-house water filtration system. Make sure none of the valves have been partially closed or accidentally bumped out of position. If your system has inlet and outlet shut-off valves, verify that both are fully open and aligned with the plumbing.
Many water pressure issues can be resolved by simply confirming that all valves are in their proper operating positions.
If the valves are open and the pressure is still low, the next step is to consider the age of the filtration media inside the system. For homes connected to municipal water supplies, the filtration media can gradually break down over time due to exposure to chlorine, disinfectants, and other chemicals used by the water utility.
Depending on water usage and local water conditions, filtration media may last anywhere from three to eight years. Municipalities throughout North Carolina and Virginia periodically increase chlorine levels when flushing water lines or performing maintenance, and these chemicals can accelerate wear on filtration media.
As the media deteriorates, it can begin to restrict water flow through the tank. In severe cases, the media may break down to the point where it creates a significant blockage, resulting in noticeable pressure loss throughout the home.
When this occurs, the system may require a media replacement, commonly referred to as a “rebed.” During a rebed, the old filtration media is removed and replaced with new media, restoring proper flow and filtration performance.
For existing East Coast Water Quality customers, media replacement coverage may vary depending on the equipment and warranty terms. However, labor associated with a rebed is typically separate because the process involves removing and refilling the filtration tank.
Keep in mind that whole-house water treatment systems process a tremendous amount of water every day. Unlike a dishwasher or washing machine that only operates periodically, a whole-house system filters water used for showers, faucets, laundry, toilets, and other household needs. Over time, this constant workload naturally takes a toll on the filtration media.
Homes served by private wells may experience different issues. Sand, sediment, iron, manganese, and other naturally occurring contaminants can create additional challenges that may require pretreatment equipment or specialized filtration solutions.
One of the easiest ways to determine whether the water treatment system is causing the pressure loss is to place the system into bypass mode temporarily. If water pressure immediately returns to normal, the restriction is likely occurring somewhere within the filtration system itself.
If the pressure remains low even while the system is bypassed, the cause may be elsewhere in the home’s plumbing system.
Bypassing the equipment is often the fastest diagnostic step and can help determine whether a media replacement, repair, or additional troubleshooting is needed. If you’re experiencing pressure loss in your whole-house water filtration system, this simple test can provide valuable insight into the source of the problem.
What You’ll Learn in This Video
- Why your whole-house water filtration system may be causing a drop in water pressure.
- How to troubleshoot pressure loss in a water treatment system.
- Which valves to check first when water pressure decreases.
- How city water conditions can affect filtration media over time.
- What a media rebed is and when it may be needed.
- How to determine whether your water treatment system is causing the pressure problem.
- Common causes of pressure loss for homeowners in North Carolina and Virginia.
Why Is Water In My Brine Or Salt Tank Of My Whole Home Water Treatment System?
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One question we get all the time is, “Why is there water in my brine tank?”
First, let’s clarify something. The salt tank on your water softener is also called the brine tank. That’s the tank where you’re pouring the salt. When homeowners look inside and see water, they often become concerned because they think something may be wrong with the system.
In most situations, however, seeing water in the brine tank is completely normal.
Typically, you’re not going to see water sitting above the salt. The water is usually down below the salt level and remains out of sight until the salt level drops. As the salt gets lower, it becomes more common to notice the water that has been sitting underneath.
A good rule of thumb is that if you’re seeing water sitting unusually high in the tank—especially if the tank is only partially filled with salt—it may be worth having the system inspected. For example, if the water level is several inches above the salt or appears to be filling a large portion of the tank, that’s when it’s a good idea to make a quick phone call and schedule service.
One simple troubleshooting step that can help is unplugging the unit and contacting a water treatment professional. A technician can determine whether the system is functioning properly and whether any repairs are needed.
The reason water is present in the brine tank is because the water softener needs that water to dissolve the salt. Whether you’re using pellet salt or rock salt, the water combines with the salt to create what is known as a brine solution.
Once the water has dissolved as much salt as it can hold, that concentrated saltwater solution becomes the brine that the water softener uses during regeneration.
The brine solution plays a critical role in the softening process. During regeneration, the water softener draws the brine solution out of the tank and into the mineral tank. The system uses that salt-rich solution to clean and recharge the resin beads that remove hardness minerals from your water.
As part of the regeneration cycle, the softener also backwashes accumulated debris and minerals from the resin bed. The brine solution helps release the hardness minerals that have attached themselves to the resin beads during normal operation.
After the regeneration process is complete, the system refills the brine tank with fresh water in preparation for the next cycle. Depending on the water softener and its settings, this refill may add anywhere from several gallons to more than ten gallons of water to the tank.
Because of that refill process, there will always be some amount of water in the brine tank.
Many homeowners become concerned when they look inside and see water sitting above a low salt level. In reality, this is often completely normal. If the tank is running low on salt and you can see water sitting over the remaining salt, there may still be plenty of salt available for several more weeks of normal operation.
In other words, seeing water does not automatically mean something is wrong.
You do not need to rush to the store the same day simply because you can see water in the brine tank. In many cases, the system is operating exactly as designed.
That said, you don’t want to let the salt run completely out. As a general recommendation, most homeowners should try to keep the brine tank at least partially filled with salt. A good target is around halfway full. Maintaining an adequate salt level helps ensure the system can continue producing the brine solution needed for future regeneration cycles.
If you’re seeing a normal amount of water in your brine tank, there’s usually no reason to panic. Water is an essential part of how a water softener works. The system needs water in the brine tank to dissolve salt, create brine, and regenerate the resin that softens your water.
If the water level appears unusually high, if the tank is overflowing, or if you suspect the system is not regenerating correctly, contact a water treatment professional for assistance.
We hope this helps answer your question about why there is water in your brine tank. Be sure to check out our other water softener FAQs and troubleshooting videos for answers to some of the most common questions homeowners have about their water treatment systems.
What You’ll Learn in This Video
- Why there is water in your water softener brine tank.
- What the brine tank actually does during the regeneration process.
- How salt and water create the brine solution used by a water softener.
- When water in the brine tank is completely normal.
- How to tell if the water level may indicate a problem.
- Why a water softener refills the brine tank after regeneration.
- How much salt should typically be kept in a brine tank.
- When to call for water softener service.
How Do I Bypass My Whole Home Water Treatment System?
Read Video Transcript / Summary
In this video, we’ll show you how to place your water treatment system into bypass mode. You might need to do this if you have a plumbing leak, want to fill a swimming pool, water your lawn, or simply don’t want large amounts of water passing through your filtration system.
No matter which system you have—whether it’s a whole-home water softener, an iron breaker, or a sulfur removal system—the bypass process is very similar. The example shown includes both an iron breaker and a Series II water softener, but the same basic principles apply to most systems.
Before turning the bypass valves, it’s helpful to shut off the incoming water supply using the shutoff valve located just before the treatment system. While this step isn’t absolutely required, it relieves pressure inside the plumbing and makes the bypass valves much easier to turn.
On the back of the control valve, you’ll find arrows identifying the inlet and outlet connections, along with the drain line that carries water away during the system’s automatic cleaning cycle. When the arrows on the bypass valves align with the inlet and outlet arrows, the system is in its normal operating position and water flows through the treatment system.
To place the unit into bypass mode, simply rotate the two red bypass valves so they face each other. This redirects the incoming water around the treatment system instead of through it. Your home will still have running water, but it will no longer be filtered or softened until the system is returned to service.
When you’re ready to put the system back into operation, slowly rotate the bypass valves back to their original positions and then turn the main water supply back on. Opening the valves gradually can help reduce sudden pressure changes in the plumbing.
If you have one of our older systems, including stainless steel or white Clack models, don’t worry—the bypass process is nearly identical. Most systems include arrows or diagrams on the bypass valve assembly showing the correct positions for both In Service and Bypass modes. If you’re ever unsure, locating the incoming water line and shutoff valve will help you identify the correct orientation.
If you have additional questions about operating or maintaining your water treatment equipment, be sure to check out the Frequently Asked Questions section of our website or give us a call. We’re always happy to help.
What You’ll Learn in This Video
- When you should bypass your water treatment system.
- How to safely place your water softener or iron filter into bypass mode.
- Why shutting off the incoming water first makes bypassing easier.
- How to identify the inlet, outlet, and drain connections on your system.
- How to return your system to normal operation after bypassing it.
- Why the bypass process is nearly the same on both newer and older East Coast Water Quality systems
Low Water Pressure After My Whole Home Water Treatment System Installation?
Read Video Transcript / Summary
First of all, congratulations on your new water treatment system installation.
If you’re watching this video, there’s a good chance you’ve recently had a water softener, whole-home filtration system, or another water treatment system installed and you’ve noticed low water pressure somewhere in the house.
One of the first things to determine is exactly where the low pressure is occurring.
Is the issue happening at a single faucet? Is it affecting the washing machine? Are you seeing reduced flow at a shower head? Or is the entire home experiencing low water pressure?
In many cases, when a homeowner experiences low water pressure shortly after a new installation, the treatment equipment itself is not actually causing the problem.
What often happens is that the installation process and the flow of cleaner water through the plumbing system can loosen sediment, mineral buildup, and debris that have been sitting inside the pipes for years. Once that material breaks loose, it travels through the plumbing system until it reaches a restriction point.
Frequently, that restriction point is a faucet aerator.
For example, you may notice normal water pressure throughout most of the house but have one kitchen faucet or bathroom faucet that suddenly seems to have reduced flow. If that’s the case, there’s a good chance the aerator on that faucet has collected sediment and debris.
Removing the aerator and cleaning it is often the quickest and easiest solution.
When you take the aerator apart, you may find small pieces of sediment, mineral buildup, pipe scale, or other debris that have accumulated inside the screen. Cleaning out that material can often restore normal water pressure immediately.
The same concept applies to washing machines.
If you’re experiencing low water flow to the washing machine or receiving error codes related to water supply, it’s worth checking the inlet screens on the washing machine hoses. Sediment that becomes dislodged during installation can collect in these screens and restrict water flow.
Simply disconnecting the water supply hoses and cleaning the inlet screens may solve the issue.
Shower heads can also be affected.
Just like faucet aerators, shower heads contain small openings that can trap sediment and debris. If you notice reduced water pressure at a shower after installation, inspecting and cleaning the shower head may help restore normal performance.
Whenever we install a new water treatment system, our technicians flush the equipment thoroughly before placing it into service. This helps remove carbon fines, installation debris, and any loose material that may be associated with the new equipment.
However, the plumbing system inside the home is a different story.
Many homes have years or even decades of accumulated sediment, mineral scale, and debris inside their plumbing. Once water flow patterns change or cleaner water begins moving through the pipes, some of that buildup can become dislodged.
That’s why it’s not uncommon to experience a temporary issue during the first few weeks following installation.
As a precaution, one of the best things homeowners can do after a new installation is remove the aerators from their faucets and allow water to run freely through the plumbing system.
Turning on multiple faucets and letting the water run for 15 to 20 minutes can help flush loose sediment from the pipes before it has a chance to collect in aerators, screens, and fixtures.
This simple step can help reduce the likelihood of clogs and pressure-related issues during the early stages after installation.
If you’re experiencing low water pressure after a new water treatment system has been installed, don’t panic. In many cases, the issue is simply loose sediment making its way through the plumbing system and becoming trapped in a faucet aerator, washing machine screen, or shower head.
A quick inspection and cleaning of those components will often resolve the problem.
If you have additional questions or concerns about your new installation, be sure to review our frequently asked questions, maintenance resources, and educational videos. Understanding how your water treatment system works and what to expect during the first few weeks after installation can help ensure years of reliable performance.
Thank you for choosing East Coast Water Quality, and we hope this information helps.
What You’ll Learn in This Video
- Why low water pressure can sometimes occur after a new water treatment system installation.
- How sediment and debris inside existing plumbing can affect faucets and appliances.
- Why faucet aerators are often the first place to check when pressure drops.
- How washing machine screens can become clogged after installation.
- Why shower heads may experience reduced flow after plumbing disturbances.
- What homeowners can do to clear sediment from their plumbing system.
- Simple maintenance tips to help prevent pressure issues after installation
What Our Customers Say
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Aeryn PJuly 21, 2026Trustindex verifies that the original source of the review is Google.
We have had a wonderful experience with East Coast Water Quality. Mr. Joel Newcomb came to our house for an in-home water test and was very professional and knowledgeable. He was extremely helpful in identifying issues with our water and helping us get the installation scheduled. The installation tech who came was also very knowledgeable and made sure to walk me through everything I needed to know about our new system.Posted on Google![]()
Brittany BMay 19, 2026Trustindex verifies that the original source of the review is Google.
Our hard water that was causing skin issues for the whole family. The system installation was fast and and the reps were super helpful answering any questions we had. We noticed a difference immediately and now our kids skin conditions have improved.Posted on Google![]()
Kathy DMay 19, 2026Trustindex verifies that the original source of the review is Google.
Ryan did a great job installing and cleaning up. He’s very polite and efficient about his work. He’s really nice young man!Posted on Google![]()
Sam RApril 26, 2026Trustindex verifies that the original source of the review is Google.
Great company to work with and no pressure.Posted on Google![]()
Alicia VApril 26, 2026Trustindex verifies that the original source of the review is Google.
Very happy with East Coast Water Quality from start to finish. Mike was very knowledgeable and explained everything while testing the water. Installation was painless.Posted on Google![]()
Denzel WFebruary 27, 2026Trustindex verifies that the original source of the review is Google.
Eastern Coastal Water Quality provided outstanding service from start to finish. Their team was professional, knowledgeable, and took the time to clearly explain the entire process. Communication was consistent, and they made everything simple and stress-free. You can tell they genuinely care about the quality of their work and their customers. I highly recommend Eastern Coastal Water Quality to anyone looking for reliable and trustworthy service.Posted on Google![]()
James AJanuary 15, 2026Trustindex verifies that the original source of the review is Google.
First class customer service! Chris, the owner, gave us a full on explanation of the systems available for our water issues and helped us to choose the best system to mitigate them. The price was easily the best we had been quoted from other services we inquired with and we didn't walk away feeling like we had just dealt with a "used car salesman". The installation was scheduled within a couple of days and the plumber, Ryan even showed up almost an hour early. He went right to work and a few hours later we were up and running. He took the time to fully explain the operations of the system and the maintenance required which was minimal. He cleaned up his work and left it as if he had never been here. Anyone looking for an affordable solution to your town, county, or well water problems, we highly recommend East Coast Water Solutions.Posted on Google![]()
Monica BOctober 24, 2025Trustindex verifies that the original source of the review is Google.
Highly recommend this company! We were tired of having to refill our water purifier everyday, and decided to get a reverse osmosis drinking system installed in our home. After filling out the online form, I was promptly contacted the next morning. Chris, the owner, clearly explained all the options and answered all of my questions. The informational collateral he shared was well-made and made everything easy to understand. When we decided to move forward, they were able to get us in right away! Ryan, our tech, arrived exactly when they said he would and he was so professional, courteous and knowledgeable, explaining everything about the system and walking me through the installation process. Overall, I had the best experience with East Coast Water Quality and would recommend them to anyone looking to improve the water quality in their home.
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757-966-7600
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252-777-5151

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910-807-2300

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919-238-9900


















