One of the most common questions we receive is what type of water softener salt to use and where to buy it. The good news is that it’s easy to find. Most hardware stores, including Lowe’s, Home Depot, Ace Hardware, and many local retailers, carry water softener salt. You can also search online for “water softener salt near me” to find nearby suppliers. Depending on the brand and type, you can typically expect to pay between $8 and $11 per bag.

If you have a private well with iron in your water, we recommend using iron-removing salt, which is often sold in bags with a green label. This type of salt helps prevent iron from building up on the softener’s resin beads, where it can form a sticky, tar-like coating that reduces the system’s efficiency. Using iron-removing salt helps keep the resin cleaner and your water softener performing at its best.

Another question we hear all the time is whether you should use pellet salt or rock salt. There are strong opinions on both sides, but we don’t get involved in the “salt wars.” Both types will effectively regenerate your water softener.

Pellet salt is generally considered cleaner and tends to leave less residue in the brine tank. Manufacturers also claim it lasts longer, although it typically costs a little more. Rock salt, on the other hand, is usually less expensive but may leave some residue in the bottom of the brine tank over time. If that buildup becomes noticeable, simply cleaning out the tank once a year is usually sufficient. In most cases, the residue is flushed out during the normal regeneration cycle and doesn’t affect the water you use.

You’ll also hear claims from both sides. Some pellet salt manufacturers say rock salt is dirtier, while supporters of rock salt argue that pellet salt can create its own issues, such as bridging or leaving residue. There are plenty of opinions, but in our experience, both products work well when used properly.

At East Coast Water Quality, we don’t insist on one type over the other. Choose the water softener salt that best fits your budget and preferences, and your system will perform just fine with either option.

Let’s talk about freeze prevention for your water treatment system. The first question to ask is whether you even need to worry about freezing. If your system is installed inside your home, garage, laundry room, or another heated indoor space, freeze protection usually isn’t necessary.

However, if your system is installed outdoors—such as at the property entrance, inside a utility shed, or in a well pump house—you’ll need to take precautions during extended periods of freezing weather. If temperatures are expected to remain below freezing for 24 to 48 hours or longer, we recommend placing a small electric heater or even a simple light bulb inside the enclosure. It doesn’t take much heat to keep the space warm enough to prevent the system from freezing.

If your system does begin to freeze, it’s important to catch it as early as possible. One of the first places ice typically forms is around the bypass valve and the small tubing located behind the control valve. You can carefully thaw this area using a hair dryer, moving it back and forth to avoid overheating or damaging any plastic components. Avoid using excessive heat, as it can melt or deform parts of the system.

Whether your system is indoors or outdoors, it’s also a good idea to let your household faucets drip during prolonged freezing temperatures. Keeping water moving through the plumbing helps reduce the risk of frozen pipes and frozen equipment.

A frozen bypass valve or plumbing connection can crack without being immediately noticeable. When temperatures rise and everything thaws, those cracks often turn into significant water leaks that require repairs. Unfortunately, freeze damage is considered weather-related and is not covered under warranty, much like damage caused by hurricanes or other natural events.

Taking a few simple precautions before freezing weather arrives can save you from expensive repairs and help keep your water treatment system operating reliably throughout the winter.

In this video, we’ll show you how to place your water treatment system into bypass mode. You might need to do this if you have a plumbing leak, want to fill a swimming pool, water your lawn, or simply don’t want large amounts of water passing through your filtration system.

No matter which system you have—whether it’s a whole-home water softener, an iron breaker, or a sulfur removal system—the bypass process is very similar. The example shown includes both an iron breaker and a Series II water softener, but the same basic principles apply to most systems.

Before turning the bypass valves, it’s helpful to shut off the incoming water supply using the shutoff valve located just before the treatment system. While this step isn’t absolutely required, it relieves pressure inside the plumbing and makes the bypass valves much easier to turn.

On the back of the control valve, you’ll find arrows identifying the inlet and outlet connections, along with the drain line that carries water away during the system’s automatic cleaning cycle. When the arrows on the bypass valves align with the inlet and outlet arrows, the system is in its normal operating position and water flows through the treatment system.

To place the unit into bypass mode, simply rotate the two red bypass valves so they face each other. This redirects the incoming water around the treatment system instead of through it. Your home will still have running water, but it will no longer be filtered or softened until the system is returned to service.

When you’re ready to put the system back into operation, slowly rotate the bypass valves back to their original positions and then turn the main water supply back on. Opening the valves gradually can help reduce sudden pressure changes in the plumbing.

If you have one of our older systems, including stainless steel or white Clack models, don’t worry—the bypass process is nearly identical. Most systems include arrows or diagrams on the bypass valve assembly showing the correct positions for both In Service and Bypass modes. If you’re ever unsure, locating the incoming water line and shutoff valve will help you identify the correct orientation.

If you have additional questions about operating or maintaining your water treatment equipment, be sure to check out the Frequently Asked Questions section of our website or give us a call. We’re always happy to help.

One question we get all the time is, “Why is there water in my brine tank?”

First, let’s clarify something. The salt tank on your water softener is also called the brine tank. That’s the tank where you’re pouring the salt. When homeowners look inside and see water, they often become concerned because they think something may be wrong with the system.

In most situations, however, seeing water in the brine tank is completely normal.

Typically, you’re not going to see water sitting above the salt. The water is usually down below the salt level and remains out of sight until the salt level drops. As the salt gets lower, it becomes more common to notice the water that has been sitting underneath.

A good rule of thumb is that if you’re seeing water sitting unusually high in the tank—especially if the tank is only partially filled with salt—it may be worth having the system inspected. For example, if the water level is several inches above the salt or appears to be filling a large portion of the tank, that’s when it’s a good idea to make a quick phone call and schedule service.

One simple troubleshooting step that can help is unplugging the unit and contacting a water treatment professional. A technician can determine whether the system is functioning properly and whether any repairs are needed.

The reason water is present in the brine tank is because the water softener needs that water to dissolve the salt. Whether you’re using pellet salt or rock salt, the water combines with the salt to create what is known as a brine solution.

Once the water has dissolved as much salt as it can hold, that concentrated saltwater solution becomes the brine that the water softener uses during regeneration.

The brine solution plays a critical role in the softening process. During regeneration, the water softener draws the brine solution out of the tank and into the mineral tank. The system uses that salt-rich solution to clean and recharge the resin beads that remove hardness minerals from your water.

As part of the regeneration cycle, the softener also backwashes accumulated debris and minerals from the resin bed. The brine solution helps release the hardness minerals that have attached themselves to the resin beads during normal operation.

After the regeneration process is complete, the system refills the brine tank with fresh water in preparation for the next cycle. Depending on the water softener and its settings, this refill may add anywhere from several gallons to more than ten gallons of water to the tank.

Because of that refill process, there will always be some amount of water in the brine tank.

Many homeowners become concerned when they look inside and see water sitting above a low salt level. In reality, this is often completely normal. If the tank is running low on salt and you can see water sitting over the remaining salt, there may still be plenty of salt available for several more weeks of normal operation.

In other words, seeing water does not automatically mean something is wrong.

You do not need to rush to the store the same day simply because you can see water in the brine tank. In many cases, the system is operating exactly as designed.

That said, you don’t want to let the salt run completely out. As a general recommendation, most homeowners should try to keep the brine tank at least partially filled with salt. A good target is around halfway full. Maintaining an adequate salt level helps ensure the system can continue producing the brine solution needed for future regeneration cycles.

If you’re seeing a normal amount of water in your brine tank, there’s usually no reason to panic. Water is an essential part of how a water softener works. The system needs water in the brine tank to dissolve salt, create brine, and regenerate the resin that softens your water.

If the water level appears unusually high, if the tank is overflowing, or if you suspect the system is not regenerating correctly, contact a water treatment professional for assistance.

We hope this helps answer your question about why there is water in your brine tank. Be sure to check out our other water softener FAQs and troubleshooting videos for answers to some of the most common questions homeowners have about their water treatment systems.

This is a question we get a lot from potential customers: “Can I install a whole-home water treatment system at my house?”

In most cases, the answer is yes. There are just a few factors we need to look at first. Any location is different, and we are always happy to walk you through the options. Whether you are on city water, municipal water, or private well water, the installation depends on where the main water line comes into the home, where the equipment can be placed, and how we can protect the system long term.

For homeowners in North Carolina and Virginia, we install whole-home water filtration systems, water softeners, and well water treatment systems in a variety of locations, including crawl spaces, garages, laundry rooms, utility rooms, pump houses, outdoor shelters, and sometimes exterior installations.

If your home has a crawl space, that is often one of the easiest situations. The main water line usually comes in underneath the house, and we can typically tap into the plumbing there. That allows us to treat the water before it goes throughout the home.

If you are on city water, one easy thing to remember is that you usually have a shut-off valve at the street. We also install a complimentary shut-off valve on our systems before the unit, so you do not have to reach down into a spider-filled meter box in the middle of summer just to shut the water off. Those meter box shut-offs can be difficult to access, and the water keys can be hard to turn. You can usually get those keys from places like Lowe’s, but we like to make the system easier to service by giving you a more convenient shut-off near the equipment.

If the system is going into a crawl space, we can usually shut the water off at the street, cut into the main water line underneath the home, and then ideally bring the system over into the garage if the plumbing layout allows it. Many homeowners prefer the garage because it protects the equipment from weather, sun, freezing temperatures, and general outdoor exposure.

When deciding where to install a water treatment system, common sense matters. Is there a doorway? Is there a practical way to run plumbing? Can we get into the garage without cutting across something that cannot be repaired properly? We want to keep the system protected, but we also need the installation to make sense for the layout of the home.

One question people ask is whether the system needs special power. In most cases, no special power is required. Most water treatment systems use a standard 110-volt outlet and very little electricity. It is similar to keeping something small plugged in, like an alarm clock. The important thing is simply having a proper outlet available if the equipment requires power.

If a garage is not available, the equipment may be installed indoors in some cases. Depending on the home, that could mean a laundry room, utility room, closet, or another interior space. There are a few things to consider with indoor installation. Some systems regenerate, depending on the type of water treatment equipment. When the system regenerates, it may make some noise and discharge water for a period of time.

If your water smells like rotten eggs, you’re not alone. This is one of the most common water quality complaints we hear from homeowners throughout North Carolina and Virginia.

In many cases, the odor is caused by hydrogen sulfide gas, often referred to simply as sulfur. Sulfur problems can sometimes occur alongside iron contamination, which is why proper testing is important before selecting a treatment solution.

One of the first questions homeowners ask is, “How do I get the sulfur smell out of my water?”

Over the years, several methods have been used to treat sulfur odors. One common approach is a chemical feed pump system that injects chlorine into the water supply as it enters the home. While these systems can be effective when operating properly, they also introduce chemicals into the water and require ongoing maintenance.

At East Coast Water Quality, we stopped recommending most chemical feed pump systems several years ago. In our experience, these systems often require frequent service and maintenance. Chemical pumps can fail, tanks can run dry, and homeowners may find themselves continually monitoring and maintaining the equipment.

When a chemical feed system runs out of solution, the sulfur odor typically returns. Many service calls involve troubleshooting issues related to pumps, chemical tanks, or system operation. For that reason, we prefer solutions that require less maintenance and provide more consistent performance.

Our preferred method for treating sulfur odors is an oxidation-based filtration system, commonly referred to as an Iron Sulfur Breaker. These systems are designed to oxidize and filter sulfur, iron, or both, depending on the water chemistry and treatment goals.

One of the advantages of oxidation filtration is that it does not require the continuous addition of chemicals to the water supply. In many cases, a properly sized oxidation system can remove sulfur odors and iron contamination in a single tank, simplifying maintenance and improving reliability.

The exact treatment recommendation depends on the results of your water test. Some water supplies contain mostly sulfur, while others contain higher levels of iron, manganese, or a combination of contaminants. Proper testing helps determine the best filtration approach for your home.

Another benefit many homeowners appreciate is that oxidation filtration systems typically do not require salt. This makes them an attractive option for homeowners looking for a low-maintenance solution to sulfur odors and iron problems.

If your well water smells like rotten eggs, the first step is identifying the source of the odor and understanding what contaminants are present. From there, the right water treatment system can be selected to eliminate odors, improve water quality, and reduce ongoing maintenance concerns.

For many homeowners in North Carolina and Virginia, oxidation-based sulfur filtration provides an effective, long-term solution for treating sulfur odors and iron contamination without the challenges associated with chemical feed pumps.

If you’ve noticed a drop in water pressure throughout your home, your water treatment system may be one of the first places to investigate. This is a question we receive regularly from homeowners throughout North Carolina and Virginia.

The first step is to check the bypass valves on your whole-house water filtration system. Make sure none of the valves have been partially closed or accidentally bumped out of position. If your system has inlet and outlet shut-off valves, verify that both are fully open and aligned with the plumbing.

Many water pressure issues can be resolved by simply confirming that all valves are in their proper operating positions.

If the valves are open and the pressure is still low, the next step is to consider the age of the filtration media inside the system. For homes connected to municipal water supplies, the filtration media can gradually break down over time due to exposure to chlorine, disinfectants, and other chemicals used by the water utility.

Depending on water usage and local water conditions, filtration media may last anywhere from three to eight years. Municipalities throughout North Carolina and Virginia periodically increase chlorine levels when flushing water lines or performing maintenance, and these chemicals can accelerate wear on filtration media.

As the media deteriorates, it can begin to restrict water flow through the tank. In severe cases, the media may break down to the point where it creates a significant blockage, resulting in noticeable pressure loss throughout the home.

When this occurs, the system may require a media replacement, commonly referred to as a “rebed.” During a rebed, the old filtration media is removed and replaced with new media, restoring proper flow and filtration performance.

For existing East Coast Water Quality customers, media replacement coverage may vary depending on the equipment and warranty terms. However, labor associated with a rebed is typically separate because the process involves removing and refilling the filtration tank.

Keep in mind that whole-house water treatment systems process a tremendous amount of water every day. Unlike a dishwasher or washing machine that only operates periodically, a whole-house system filters water used for showers, faucets, laundry, toilets, and other household needs. Over time, this constant workload naturally takes a toll on the filtration media.

Homes served by private wells may experience different issues. Sand, sediment, iron, manganese, and other naturally occurring contaminants can create additional challenges that may require pretreatment equipment or specialized filtration solutions.

One of the easiest ways to determine whether the water treatment system is causing the pressure loss is to place the system into bypass mode temporarily. If water pressure immediately returns to normal, the restriction is likely occurring somewhere within the filtration system itself.

If the pressure remains low even while the system is bypassed, the cause may be elsewhere in the home’s plumbing system.

Bypassing the equipment is often the fastest diagnostic step and can help determine whether a media replacement, repair, or additional troubleshooting is needed. If you’re experiencing pressure loss in your whole-house water filtration system, this simple test can provide valuable insight into the source of the problem.

One of the questions we get all the time is, “Do I still need a reverse osmosis system if I already have a whole-home water treatment system?” The short answer is yes, because the two systems serve very different purposes.

A whole-home system is designed to treat what we call your working water—the water you use for showers, laundry, washing dishes, and protecting your plumbing and appliances. Without getting overly technical, a water softener works through an ion exchange process. It removes hardness minerals like calcium and magnesium and replaces them with an equal amount of sodium ions. That’s great for reducing hard water problems throughout your home, but it doesn’t produce the highest quality drinking water.

That’s where reverse osmosis comes in. While the whole-home system improves water for everyday household use, the reverse osmosis system is designed specifically for drinking and cooking water. It removes many contaminants that a water softener cannot, including PFAS (“forever chemicals”), lead, arsenic, fluoride, nitrates, sodium, pharmaceuticals, microplastics, total dissolved solids (TDS), volatile organic compounds (VOCs), and many other chemical contaminants. The goal is to provide one final stage of purification right before the water reaches your glass.

If your budget doesn’t allow you to install both systems at the same time, we understand. If we had to recommend installing them in stages, we’d generally suggest starting with the reverse osmosis system because drinking water quality has the greatest direct impact on what you consume every day. That said, among our more than 8,000 customers, approximately 95% choose to install both systems because they complement each other.

Another common question is whether you still need the filter inside your refrigerator if your home already has a whole-home treatment system and reverse osmosis. In most cases, the answer is no. Refrigerator filters are typically just small carbon filters and don’t remove the broad range of contaminants that a reverse osmosis system does. In fact, the catalytic carbon used in our whole-home systems is generally much more effective than the carbon found in standard refrigerator filters.

Some refrigerators require a filter bypass plug to keep the water dispenser working after the factory filter is removed. Many refrigerators include one when they’re new, and if yours doesn’t, the manufacturer will often provide one at little or no cost. It may take a couple of attempts to receive the correct bypass plug for your specific model.

Finally, many homeowners ask whether reverse osmosis water can be supplied directly to the refrigerator and ice maker. If your home is pre-plumbed—such as many of the homes built by our builder partners—or if you have a crawl space that allows us to run a water line beneath the floor, connecting the refrigerator is usually straightforward. However, homes built on a concrete slab without a concealed route between the kitchen sink and refrigerator may not allow for a hidden water line. In those situations, you’ll still have excellent purified drinking water at the sink and can easily fill a pitcher for the refrigerator if needed.

If you have additional questions about maintenance, filter replacement schedules, or any of our water treatment systems, be sure to visit the Frequently Asked Questions section of our website or give us a call. We’re always happy to help.

We get this question quite a bit through our website, over the phone, and from homeowners researching water treatment online.

The question is usually something along the lines of, “Will a water treatment system really help my skin?” Sometimes it’s a parent asking about a child with eczema. Sometimes it’s someone dealing with dry skin, dry scalp, irritation, or other skin concerns. We hear a lot of different versions of the same question.

The first thing I always tell people is this: don’t just listen to a salesperson who’s trying to sell you something. Listen to people who have actually used the product.

In our case, I encourage people to visit East Coast Water Quality and spend some time reading the reviews and testimonials from real customers. You’re probably already on our website if you’re watching this video. Take a few minutes to listen to the experiences of homeowners who have actually installed and used these systems.

Many of those customers have been using their systems for 15 days, 30 days, or a few months. Others have had them for years. You can hear directly from families about the changes they’ve noticed after improving the quality of the water throughout their homes.

Now, I’m not going to promise you anything, and I’m not going to tell you that installing a water treatment system will automatically solve a skin condition. What I can do is give you some information and some things to think about so you can make an informed decision for yourself.

When we talk about municipal water, it’s important to remember that our cities and municipalities do an incredible job delivering water to our homes. Most of us don’t spend much time thinking about how difficult that process actually is.

If you go look at a reservoir or a water source and then think about the water that eventually comes out of your faucet, it’s pretty amazing. But in order to make that happen safely, municipalities have to disinfect the water and keep it protected all the way to your home.

That means disinfectants like chlorine are commonly present in municipal water supplies. In many areas, chloramines are also used. Chloramines are created by combining chlorine and ammonia and are used as a long-lasting disinfectant within the distribution system.

I would encourage you to do some research on chlorine, chloramines, and their potential effects on skin and hair.

One of the things we notice in the water treatment industry is the impact these disinfectants can have on materials over time. Every few years, we’ll disconnect a water treatment system and inspect the components. In some cases, we’ll see rubber O-rings and gaskets on untreated water systems that have become brittle, deteriorated, or partially disintegrated over time.

Then we’ll compare those components to similar parts located after the water treatment equipment, and those parts often look dramatically different.

When you see the effect water chemistry can have on materials like rubber gaskets and seals, it’s natural for homeowners to wonder what the long-term impact may be on their skin, especially for young children or individuals who already have skin sensitivities.

Another demonstration we often perform involves clothing and laundry.

We’ll take a jar and soak clothing or fabric in water. Then we’ll compare how detergents, minerals, and other residues behave under different water conditions. Many people are surprised to learn how much detergent and residue can remain trapped in fabrics after washing.

Water is often referred to as the universal solvent. It dissolves, carries, and removes substances from whatever it comes into contact with. But once water becomes loaded with minerals, hardness, soap residue, and other contaminants, its ability to clean effectively can be reduced.

That’s why people sometimes notice soap scum in bathtubs, spots on dishes, residue on fixtures, or clothing that doesn’t seem completely clean even after it comes out of the wash.

Hard water can contribute to many of these issues.

When hard water is present, soaps and detergents often don’t rinse as effectively. As a result, some of those residues can remain on dishes, clothing, shower surfaces, and even your skin.

Many of us use soaps, shampoos, conditioners, body washes, and other personal care products every day. We put those products on our skin and hair expecting them to rinse away cleanly. But if the water isn’t rinsing effectively because of hardness minerals or other water quality issues, it’s reasonable to ask whether some of those residues may remain behind.

Those are some of the factors that homeowners should consider when evaluating the relationship between water quality and skin comfort.

Again, I’m not going to sit here and tell you that a water treatment system will cure a skin condition. What I am going to tell you is that many people who install whole-home water treatment systems report positive experiences related to their skin, hair, and overall comfort.

That’s why I always encourage homeowners to go beyond marketing claims and listen to real customer experiences. Read reviews. Watch testimonials. Talk to people who have actually lived with these systems and hear what they have to say.

If you remove hardness minerals, reduce chlorine exposure, improve rinsing performance, and improve the overall quality of the water throughout your home, it’s fair to ask whether those changes could make a difference for your skin and hair.

Ultimately, that’s a decision each homeowner has to make for themselves.

We’re not here to make medical claims. We’re simply providing information, encouraging you to ask the right questions, and helping you evaluate whether improved water quality may be beneficial for your family.

Many homeowners choose whole-home water treatment systems specifically because of concerns related to skin, dry scalp, irritation, and hair quality. In fact, hair health is another topic we discuss frequently and cover in a separate video.

Hopefully this information gives you a better understanding of the connection between water quality, chlorine, hard water, and skin concerns. Be sure to check out our other videos and customer testimonials to learn more about how water treatment systems are helping families throughout North Carolina and Virginia.

First of all, congratulations on your new water treatment system installation.

If you’re watching this video, there’s a good chance you’ve recently had a water softener, whole-home filtration system, or another water treatment system installed and you’ve noticed low water pressure somewhere in the house.

One of the first things to determine is exactly where the low pressure is occurring.

Is the issue happening at a single faucet? Is it affecting the washing machine? Are you seeing reduced flow at a shower head? Or is the entire home experiencing low water pressure?

In many cases, when a homeowner experiences low water pressure shortly after a new installation, the treatment equipment itself is not actually causing the problem.

What often happens is that the installation process and the flow of cleaner water through the plumbing system can loosen sediment, mineral buildup, and debris that have been sitting inside the pipes for years. Once that material breaks loose, it travels through the plumbing system until it reaches a restriction point.

Frequently, that restriction point is a faucet aerator.

For example, you may notice normal water pressure throughout most of the house but have one kitchen faucet or bathroom faucet that suddenly seems to have reduced flow. If that’s the case, there’s a good chance the aerator on that faucet has collected sediment and debris.

Removing the aerator and cleaning it is often the quickest and easiest solution.

When you take the aerator apart, you may find small pieces of sediment, mineral buildup, pipe scale, or other debris that have accumulated inside the screen. Cleaning out that material can often restore normal water pressure immediately.

The same concept applies to washing machines.

If you’re experiencing low water flow to the washing machine or receiving error codes related to water supply, it’s worth checking the inlet screens on the washing machine hoses. Sediment that becomes dislodged during installation can collect in these screens and restrict water flow.

Simply disconnecting the water supply hoses and cleaning the inlet screens may solve the issue.

Shower heads can also be affected.

Just like faucet aerators, shower heads contain small openings that can trap sediment and debris. If you notice reduced water pressure at a shower after installation, inspecting and cleaning the shower head may help restore normal performance.

Whenever we install a new water treatment system, our technicians flush the equipment thoroughly before placing it into service. This helps remove carbon fines, installation debris, and any loose material that may be associated with the new equipment.

However, the plumbing system inside the home is a different story.

Many homes have years or even decades of accumulated sediment, mineral scale, and debris inside their plumbing. Once water flow patterns change or cleaner water begins moving through the pipes, some of that buildup can become dislodged.

That’s why it’s not uncommon to experience a temporary issue during the first few weeks following installation.

As a precaution, one of the best things homeowners can do after a new installation is remove the aerators from their faucets and allow water to run freely through the plumbing system.

Turning on multiple faucets and letting the water run for 15 to 20 minutes can help flush loose sediment from the pipes before it has a chance to collect in aerators, screens, and fixtures.

This simple step can help reduce the likelihood of clogs and pressure-related issues during the early stages after installation.

If you’re experiencing low water pressure after a new water treatment system has been installed, don’t panic. In many cases, the issue is simply loose sediment making its way through the plumbing system and becoming trapped in a faucet aerator, washing machine screen, or shower head.

A quick inspection and cleaning of those components will often resolve the problem.

If you have additional questions or concerns about your new installation, be sure to review our frequently asked questions, maintenance resources, and educational videos. Understanding how your water treatment system works and what to expect during the first few weeks after installation can help ensure years of reliable performance.

Thank you for choosing East Coast Water Quality, and we hope this information helps.

First of all, congratulations on your new water treatment system installation.

If you’re watching this video, there’s a good chance you’ve recently had a water softener, whole-home filtration system, or another water treatment system installed and you’ve noticed low water pressure somewhere in the house.

One of the first things to determine is exactly where the low pressure is occurring.

Is the issue happening at a single faucet? Is it affecting the washing machine? Are you seeing reduced flow at a shower head? Or is the entire home experiencing low water pressure?

In many cases, when a homeowner experiences low water pressure shortly after a new installation, the treatment equipment itself is not actually causing the problem.

What often happens is that the installation process and the flow of cleaner water through the plumbing system can loosen sediment, mineral buildup, and debris that have been sitting inside the pipes for years. Once that material breaks loose, it travels through the plumbing system until it reaches a restriction point.

Frequently, that restriction point is a faucet aerator.

For example, you may notice normal water pressure throughout most of the house but have one kitchen faucet or bathroom faucet that suddenly seems to have reduced flow. If that’s the case, there’s a good chance the aerator on that faucet has collected sediment and debris.

Removing the aerator and cleaning it is often the quickest and easiest solution.

When you take the aerator apart, you may find small pieces of sediment, mineral buildup, pipe scale, or other debris that have accumulated inside the screen. Cleaning out that material can often restore normal water pressure immediately.

The same concept applies to washing machines.

If you’re experiencing low water flow to the washing machine or receiving error codes related to water supply, it’s worth checking the inlet screens on the washing machine hoses. Sediment that becomes dislodged during installation can collect in these screens and restrict water flow.

Simply disconnecting the water supply hoses and cleaning the inlet screens may solve the issue.

Shower heads can also be affected.

Just like faucet aerators, shower heads contain small openings that can trap sediment and debris. If you notice reduced water pressure at a shower after installation, inspecting and cleaning the shower head may help restore normal performance.

Whenever we install a new water treatment system, our technicians flush the equipment thoroughly before placing it into service. This helps remove carbon fines, installation debris, and any loose material that may be associated with the new equipment.

However, the plumbing system inside the home is a different story.

Many homes have years or even decades of accumulated sediment, mineral scale, and debris inside their plumbing. Once water flow patterns change or cleaner water begins moving through the pipes, some of that buildup can become dislodged.

That’s why it’s not uncommon to experience a temporary issue during the first few weeks following installation.

As a precaution, one of the best things homeowners can do after a new installation is remove the aerators from their faucets and allow water to run freely through the plumbing system.

Turning on multiple faucets and letting the water run for 15 to 20 minutes can help flush loose sediment from the pipes before it has a chance to collect in aerators, screens, and fixtures.

This simple step can help reduce the likelihood of clogs and pressure-related issues during the early stages after installation.

If you’re experiencing low water pressure after a new water treatment system has been installed, don’t panic. In many cases, the issue is simply loose sediment making its way through the plumbing system and becoming trapped in a faucet aerator, washing machine screen, or shower head.

A quick inspection and cleaning of those components will often resolve the problem.

If you have additional questions or concerns about your new installation, be sure to review our frequently asked questions, maintenance resources, and educational videos. Understanding how your water treatment system works and what to expect during the first few weeks after installation can help ensure years of reliable performance.

Thank you for choosing East Coast Water Quality, and we hope this information helps.