FAQ - Whole Home Water Treatment Systems

Maintenance

What Kind Of Salt Do I Add To My Brine Tank & Where Can I Purchase It?

One of the most common questions we receive is what type of water softener salt to use and where to buy it. The good news is that it’s easy to find. Most hardware stores, including Lowe’s, Home Depot, Ace Hardware, and many local retailers, carry water softener salt. You can also search online for “water softener salt near me” to find nearby suppliers. Depending on the brand and type, you can typically expect to pay between $8 and $11 per bag.

If you have a private well with iron in your water, we recommend using iron-removing salt, which is often sold in bags with a green label. This type of salt helps prevent iron from building up on the softener’s resin beads, where it can form a sticky, tar-like coating that reduces the system’s efficiency. Using iron-removing salt helps keep the resin cleaner and your water softener performing at its best.

Another question we hear all the time is whether you should use pellet salt or rock salt. There are strong opinions on both sides, but we don’t get involved in the “salt wars.” Both types will effectively regenerate your water softener.

Pellet salt is generally considered cleaner and tends to leave less residue in the brine tank. Manufacturers also claim it lasts longer, although it typically costs a little more. Rock salt, on the other hand, is usually less expensive but may leave some residue in the bottom of the brine tank over time. If that buildup becomes noticeable, simply cleaning out the tank once a year is usually sufficient. In most cases, the residue is flushed out during the normal regeneration cycle and doesn’t affect the water you use.

You’ll also hear claims from both sides. Some pellet salt manufacturers say rock salt is dirtier, while supporters of rock salt argue that pellet salt can create its own issues, such as bridging or leaving residue. There are plenty of opinions, but in our experience, both products work well when used properly.

At East Coast Water Quality, we don’t insist on one type over the other. Choose the water softener salt that best fits your budget and preferences, and your system will perform just fine with either option.

What You’ll Learn in This Video

  • Where to buy water softener salt and what you can expect to pay.
  • When to use iron-removing salt for homes with well water.
  • The differences between pellet salt and rock salt.
  • The advantages and disadvantages of each type of water softener salt.
  • Whether one type of salt is actually better for your water softener.
  • Which type of salt we recommend and why the choice ultimately comes down to personal preference.

How Do I Keep My Whole Home Conditioner From Freezing?

Let’s talk about freeze prevention for your water treatment system. The first question to ask is whether you even need to worry about freezing. If your system is installed inside your home, garage, laundry room, or another heated indoor space, freeze protection usually isn’t necessary.

However, if your system is installed outdoors—such as at the property entrance, inside a utility shed, or in a well pump house—you’ll need to take precautions during extended periods of freezing weather. If temperatures are expected to remain below freezing for 24 to 48 hours or longer, we recommend placing a small electric heater or even a simple light bulb inside the enclosure. It doesn’t take much heat to keep the space warm enough to prevent the system from freezing.

If your system does begin to freeze, it’s important to catch it as early as possible. One of the first places ice typically forms is around the bypass valve and the small tubing located behind the control valve. You can carefully thaw this area using a hair dryer, moving it back and forth to avoid overheating or damaging any plastic components. Avoid using excessive heat, as it can melt or deform parts of the system.

Whether your system is indoors or outdoors, it’s also a good idea to let your household faucets drip during prolonged freezing temperatures. Keeping water moving through the plumbing helps reduce the risk of frozen pipes and frozen equipment.

A frozen bypass valve or plumbing connection can crack without being immediately noticeable. When temperatures rise and everything thaws, those cracks often turn into significant water leaks that require repairs. Unfortunately, freeze damage is considered weather-related and is not covered under warranty, much like damage caused by hurricanes or other natural events.

Taking a few simple precautions before freezing weather arrives can save you from expensive repairs and help keep your water treatment system operating reliably throughout the winter.

What You’ll Learn in This Video

  • Which water treatment systems are at risk of freezing and which don’t require freeze protection.
  • Simple ways to prevent an outdoor water treatment system from freezing during cold weather.
  • Where water softeners typically freeze first and how to safely thaw them.
  • Why letting your pipes drip during freezing temperatures can help prevent damage.
  • What can happen if your system freezes, including costly repairs that aren’t covered by warranty.
  • Tips to help protect your water treatment system throughout the winter.

Pressure Loss Through My Whole Some Water Filtration System?

If you’ve noticed a drop in water pressure throughout your home, your water treatment system may be one of the first places to investigate. This is a question we receive regularly from homeowners throughout North Carolina and Virginia.

The first step is to check the bypass valves on your whole-house water filtration system. Make sure none of the valves have been partially closed or accidentally bumped out of position. If your system has inlet and outlet shut-off valves, verify that both are fully open and aligned with the plumbing.

Many water pressure issues can be resolved by simply confirming that all valves are in their proper operating positions.

If the valves are open and the pressure is still low, the next step is to consider the age of the filtration media inside the system. For homes connected to municipal water supplies, the filtration media can gradually break down over time due to exposure to chlorine, disinfectants, and other chemicals used by the water utility.

Depending on water usage and local water conditions, filtration media may last anywhere from three to eight years. Municipalities throughout North Carolina and Virginia periodically increase chlorine levels when flushing water lines or performing maintenance, and these chemicals can accelerate wear on filtration media.

As the media deteriorates, it can begin to restrict water flow through the tank. In severe cases, the media may break down to the point where it creates a significant blockage, resulting in noticeable pressure loss throughout the home.

When this occurs, the system may require a media replacement, commonly referred to as a “rebed.” During a rebed, the old filtration media is removed and replaced with new media, restoring proper flow and filtration performance.

For existing East Coast Water Quality customers, media replacement coverage may vary depending on the equipment and warranty terms. However, labor associated with a rebed is typically separate because the process involves removing and refilling the filtration tank.

Keep in mind that whole-house water treatment systems process a tremendous amount of water every day. Unlike a dishwasher or washing machine that only operates periodically, a whole-house system filters water used for showers, faucets, laundry, toilets, and other household needs. Over time, this constant workload naturally takes a toll on the filtration media.

Homes served by private wells may experience different issues. Sand, sediment, iron, manganese, and other naturally occurring contaminants can create additional challenges that may require pretreatment equipment or specialized filtration solutions.

One of the easiest ways to determine whether the water treatment system is causing the pressure loss is to place the system into bypass mode temporarily. If water pressure immediately returns to normal, the restriction is likely occurring somewhere within the filtration system itself.

If the pressure remains low even while the system is bypassed, the cause may be elsewhere in the home’s plumbing system.

Bypassing the equipment is often the fastest diagnostic step and can help determine whether a media replacement, repair, or additional troubleshooting is needed. If you’re experiencing pressure loss in your whole-house water filtration system, this simple test can provide valuable insight into the source of the problem.

What You’ll Learn in This Video

  • Why your whole-house water filtration system may be causing a drop in water pressure.
  • How to troubleshoot pressure loss in a water treatment system.
  • Which valves to check first when water pressure decreases.
  • How city water conditions can affect filtration media over time.
  • What a media rebed is and when it may be needed.
  • How to determine whether your water treatment system is causing the pressure problem.
  • Common causes of pressure loss for homeowners in North Carolina and Virginia.

Why Is Water In My Brine Or Salt Tank Of My Whole Home Water Treatment System?

One question we get all the time is, “Why is there water in my brine tank?”

First, let’s clarify something. The salt tank on your water softener is also called the brine tank. That’s the tank where you’re pouring the salt. When homeowners look inside and see water, they often become concerned because they think something may be wrong with the system.

In most situations, however, seeing water in the brine tank is completely normal.

Typically, you’re not going to see water sitting above the salt. The water is usually down below the salt level and remains out of sight until the salt level drops. As the salt gets lower, it becomes more common to notice the water that has been sitting underneath.

A good rule of thumb is that if you’re seeing water sitting unusually high in the tank—especially if the tank is only partially filled with salt—it may be worth having the system inspected. For example, if the water level is several inches above the salt or appears to be filling a large portion of the tank, that’s when it’s a good idea to make a quick phone call and schedule service.

One simple troubleshooting step that can help is unplugging the unit and contacting a water treatment professional. A technician can determine whether the system is functioning properly and whether any repairs are needed.

The reason water is present in the brine tank is because the water softener needs that water to dissolve the salt. Whether you’re using pellet salt or rock salt, the water combines with the salt to create what is known as a brine solution.

Once the water has dissolved as much salt as it can hold, that concentrated saltwater solution becomes the brine that the water softener uses during regeneration.

The brine solution plays a critical role in the softening process. During regeneration, the water softener draws the brine solution out of the tank and into the mineral tank. The system uses that salt-rich solution to clean and recharge the resin beads that remove hardness minerals from your water.

As part of the regeneration cycle, the softener also backwashes accumulated debris and minerals from the resin bed. The brine solution helps release the hardness minerals that have attached themselves to the resin beads during normal operation.

After the regeneration process is complete, the system refills the brine tank with fresh water in preparation for the next cycle. Depending on the water softener and its settings, this refill may add anywhere from several gallons to more than ten gallons of water to the tank.

Because of that refill process, there will always be some amount of water in the brine tank.

Many homeowners become concerned when they look inside and see water sitting above a low salt level. In reality, this is often completely normal. If the tank is running low on salt and you can see water sitting over the remaining salt, there may still be plenty of salt available for several more weeks of normal operation.

In other words, seeing water does not automatically mean something is wrong.

You do not need to rush to the store the same day simply because you can see water in the brine tank. In many cases, the system is operating exactly as designed.

That said, you don’t want to let the salt run completely out. As a general recommendation, most homeowners should try to keep the brine tank at least partially filled with salt. A good target is around halfway full. Maintaining an adequate salt level helps ensure the system can continue producing the brine solution needed for future regeneration cycles.

If you’re seeing a normal amount of water in your brine tank, there’s usually no reason to panic. Water is an essential part of how a water softener works. The system needs water in the brine tank to dissolve salt, create brine, and regenerate the resin that softens your water.

If the water level appears unusually high, if the tank is overflowing, or if you suspect the system is not regenerating correctly, contact a water treatment professional for assistance.

We hope this helps answer your question about why there is water in your brine tank. Be sure to check out our other water softener FAQs and troubleshooting videos for answers to some of the most common questions homeowners have about their water treatment systems.

What You’ll Learn in This Video

  • Why there is water in your water softener brine tank.
  • What the brine tank actually does during the regeneration process.
  • How salt and water create the brine solution used by a water softener.
  • When water in the brine tank is completely normal.
  • How to tell if the water level may indicate a problem.
  • Why a water softener refills the brine tank after regeneration.
  • How much salt should typically be kept in a brine tank.
  • When to call for water softener service.

How Do I Bypass My Whole Home Water Treatment System?

In this video, we’ll show you how to place your water treatment system into bypass mode. You might need to do this if you have a plumbing leak, want to fill a swimming pool, water your lawn, or simply don’t want large amounts of water passing through your filtration system.

No matter which system you have—whether it’s a whole-home water softener, an iron breaker, or a sulfur removal system—the bypass process is very similar. The example shown includes both an iron breaker and a Series II water softener, but the same basic principles apply to most systems.

Before turning the bypass valves, it’s helpful to shut off the incoming water supply using the shutoff valve located just before the treatment system. While this step isn’t absolutely required, it relieves pressure inside the plumbing and makes the bypass valves much easier to turn.

On the back of the control valve, you’ll find arrows identifying the inlet and outlet connections, along with the drain line that carries water away during the system’s automatic cleaning cycle. When the arrows on the bypass valves align with the inlet and outlet arrows, the system is in its normal operating position and water flows through the treatment system.

To place the unit into bypass mode, simply rotate the two red bypass valves so they face each other. This redirects the incoming water around the treatment system instead of through it. Your home will still have running water, but it will no longer be filtered or softened until the system is returned to service.

When you’re ready to put the system back into operation, slowly rotate the bypass valves back to their original positions and then turn the main water supply back on. Opening the valves gradually can help reduce sudden pressure changes in the plumbing.

If you have one of our older systems, including stainless steel or white Clack models, don’t worry—the bypass process is nearly identical. Most systems include arrows or diagrams on the bypass valve assembly showing the correct positions for both In Service and Bypass modes. If you’re ever unsure, locating the incoming water line and shutoff valve will help you identify the correct orientation.

If you have additional questions about operating or maintaining your water treatment equipment, be sure to check out the Frequently Asked Questions section of our website or give us a call. We’re always happy to help.

What You’ll Learn in This Video

  • When you should bypass your water treatment system.
  • How to safely place your water softener or iron filter into bypass mode.
  • Why shutting off the incoming water first makes bypassing easier.
  • How to identify the inlet, outlet, and drain connections on your system.
  • How to return your system to normal operation after bypassing it.
  • Why the bypass process is nearly the same on both newer and older East Coast Water Quality systems

Low Water Pressure After My Whole Home Water Treatment System Installation?

First of all, congratulations on your new water treatment system installation.

If you’re watching this video, there’s a good chance you’ve recently had a water softener, whole-home filtration system, or another water treatment system installed and you’ve noticed low water pressure somewhere in the house.

One of the first things to determine is exactly where the low pressure is occurring.

Is the issue happening at a single faucet? Is it affecting the washing machine? Are you seeing reduced flow at a shower head? Or is the entire home experiencing low water pressure?

In many cases, when a homeowner experiences low water pressure shortly after a new installation, the treatment equipment itself is not actually causing the problem.

What often happens is that the installation process and the flow of cleaner water through the plumbing system can loosen sediment, mineral buildup, and debris that have been sitting inside the pipes for years. Once that material breaks loose, it travels through the plumbing system until it reaches a restriction point.

Frequently, that restriction point is a faucet aerator.

For example, you may notice normal water pressure throughout most of the house but have one kitchen faucet or bathroom faucet that suddenly seems to have reduced flow. If that’s the case, there’s a good chance the aerator on that faucet has collected sediment and debris.

Removing the aerator and cleaning it is often the quickest and easiest solution.

When you take the aerator apart, you may find small pieces of sediment, mineral buildup, pipe scale, or other debris that have accumulated inside the screen. Cleaning out that material can often restore normal water pressure immediately.

The same concept applies to washing machines.

If you’re experiencing low water flow to the washing machine or receiving error codes related to water supply, it’s worth checking the inlet screens on the washing machine hoses. Sediment that becomes dislodged during installation can collect in these screens and restrict water flow.

Simply disconnecting the water supply hoses and cleaning the inlet screens may solve the issue.

Shower heads can also be affected.

Just like faucet aerators, shower heads contain small openings that can trap sediment and debris. If you notice reduced water pressure at a shower after installation, inspecting and cleaning the shower head may help restore normal performance.

Whenever we install a new water treatment system, our technicians flush the equipment thoroughly before placing it into service. This helps remove carbon fines, installation debris, and any loose material that may be associated with the new equipment.

However, the plumbing system inside the home is a different story.

Many homes have years or even decades of accumulated sediment, mineral scale, and debris inside their plumbing. Once water flow patterns change or cleaner water begins moving through the pipes, some of that buildup can become dislodged.

That’s why it’s not uncommon to experience a temporary issue during the first few weeks following installation.

As a precaution, one of the best things homeowners can do after a new installation is remove the aerators from their faucets and allow water to run freely through the plumbing system.

Turning on multiple faucets and letting the water run for 15 to 20 minutes can help flush loose sediment from the pipes before it has a chance to collect in aerators, screens, and fixtures.

This simple step can help reduce the likelihood of clogs and pressure-related issues during the early stages after installation.

If you’re experiencing low water pressure after a new water treatment system has been installed, don’t panic. In many cases, the issue is simply loose sediment making its way through the plumbing system and becoming trapped in a faucet aerator, washing machine screen, or shower head.

A quick inspection and cleaning of those components will often resolve the problem.

If you have additional questions or concerns about your new installation, be sure to review our frequently asked questions, maintenance resources, and educational videos. Understanding how your water treatment system works and what to expect during the first few weeks after installation can help ensure years of reliable performance.

Thank you for choosing East Coast Water Quality, and we hope this information helps.

What You’ll Learn in This Video

  • Why low water pressure can sometimes occur after a new water treatment system installation.
  • How sediment and debris inside existing plumbing can affect faucets and appliances.
  • Why faucet aerators are often the first place to check when pressure drops.
  • How washing machine screens can become clogged after installation.
  • Why shower heads may experience reduced flow after plumbing disturbances.
  • What homeowners can do to clear sediment from their plumbing system.
  • Simple maintenance tips to help prevent pressure issues after installation

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